MY JOURNAL
INTRODUCTION
On 29th May 2010, I set off on a trip that I had been planning for some time, a trip that would take me through 4 countries, and lead to the publication of my book 'In My Father's Footsteps':
In My Father's Footsteps eBook : Lidster, Robert: Amazon.co.uk: Kindle Store I was re-tracing the route that my father had taken in 1940 when he was serving with the Royal Signals, a route that would lead to his capture by the Germans, and imprisonment in a P.O.W. camp for the rest of the war.
Here are my journal entries from that trip, (as I wrote them at the time, warts and all). These journal entries are the basis for my book which is available on Amazon as an e-book.
Saturday 29th May 2010
07:00 Left home, Chris (my wife) drove me to Clacton railway station to catch National Express coach service 484 to London Victoria. We got to station at 07:25, weather was cold and overcast. As I sat down I began to realise what a big trip this was. We made stops at University of Essex, Colchester (20 minute break), Witham, Romford, London Embankment (opposite London Eye) and arrived at Victoria on time at 10:20, giving me 1 hour 10 minutes to have something to eat and drink before catching the coach to Portsmouth at 11:30.
N.B. On A12 between Colchester and Witham we just managed to avoid an accident when 3 cars came to a grinding halt in the two outside lanes, with smoke pouring from the tyres and 2 cars coming into contact (looked like a case of road rage).
11:30 Service 030 Victoria to Portsmouth left about 2 minutes late, Nathan, our driver did however give us a safety talk Re: exit doors and belts, before we set off. It was now raining hard and after a while the boredom took over and I fell asleep, albeit only for about 20 minutes. There were road works on the way which slowed things down, and we arrived at the ferry terminal in Portsmouth at about 13:40 (ten to fifteen minutes late). I checked in immediately and was told boarding would start at 15:00 at gate 1. The terminal had a couple of bureau de change, check ins for Brittany Ferries (who I was travelling with), P&O Ferries, LD Lines and Condor Ferries. It also had ample seating, a café, vending machines and toilets, and the obligatory shop.
There was also, nearby, a separate terminal with café and shop and bureau de change for car passengers, which had views of the port, which had a couple of old Navy boats docked over the far side. It was only as I was walking between the two terminals that I remembered that 13 years ago, I worked here for 1 day in my capacity of an Interviewer for The Office of National Statistics. It was pouring with rain that day as well!
15:00 and boarding started for the 15:30 sailing from Portsmouth to Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries. We were quickly through customs, but foot passengers were taken on board via the same ramp as the cars, via the car deck, and not via a separate ramp as usual. It was very badly signposted and not at all clear as to the procedure. Once on board, the ferry seemed bright and airy with a large seating area, with a bar and café and good views out to sea. We left 10 minutes late at 15:40 and as we sailed out of port we passed the Navy dock with it's many navy grey ships of all shapes and sizes, including 'Invincible', 'Fort Austin', 'Westminster' and the 'Kent'.
The ferry was pretty full, mainly with car passengers as very few foot passengers came on board with me. There were a lot of children (it must be school holidays yet again!) it is Bank Holiday on Monday in the UK. We sailed past Nelson's ship and HMS Warrior, past the iconic 'Sail' and Portsmouth harbour and marina. Once we had been sailing for 30-45 minutes, I decided to check out the ferry, and my plan was to get some dinner on board to save me time in France, however, I was to be disappointed as there was no restaurant on board, only 3 bars/cafes serving hot and cold drinks and snacks, sufficient for the short Dover-Calais crossings, but a bit disappointing on a crossing that takes 3 hours. I purchased a coffee (£1.20) and returned to my seat to watch '101 Dalmations on the giant TV ( I just hope I can get a decent meal in Cherbourg). My summing up of Brittany Ferries Normandie Express? OK if you need to travel this route in the quickest time possible, but not a great part of the overall holiday experience, I'm looking forward to getting off and getting something to eat!
NB The crossing was fairly rough, making it difficult to walk around. Re: the movie, this is the second time I have seen '101 Dalmations, the last time was on a flight from London to Dubai, I really think that someone should have informed the producers that there aren't any racoons or skunks in the wild in the UK.
19:40 Arrived in Cherbourg about 10 minutes late, this time the foot passengers were taken off via a proper foot gangway, and a bus ferried us to the terminal. There was no French customs so we were straight out, and I was on my way by foot to my hotel at 19:55. I arrived at 'Marine Hotel' at 20:10 and after checking in and putting my things in my room, I was in the restaurant just after 20:30. I had steak and chips which was very tasty. Only the small restaurant (7 tables) was open as there was a private function in the main restaurant. The food being served at the other tables all looked to be of a good standard, and the service was quick and pleasant. I went back to my room at about 21:45 to look through leaflets I had picked up and plan my day for tomorrow.
NB On arrival at hotel, the tall rectangle building was not handsome, although it had a fantastic vantage point overlooking the marina. The foyer however, was bright and inviting, and the staff behind reception very accommodating. The corridors looked not at their best, as did my room, but it was clean and had everything I needed, tea/coffee making facilities and complimentary shampoo etc. The room was fitted out as a double, although size wise, it was ideal as a single. The Marine Hotel is 3 star.Sunday 30th May 2010
I had a good nights sleep, woke a few times and eventually got up at 07:00, showered and had coffee, cereal bars and an apple for breakfast, in my room. I left hotel at 08:15 to walk around town and go to train station to inquire about trains to Pontorson. Nice and sunny with a cool breeze. It took 10 minutes to walk into town and a further 10 minutes to get to the train station. I bought a ticket for 25.90 euros to leave at 13:46. I walked around town and harbour, getting back to hotel at 09:45. I had a coffee in my room and rested before checking out at 11.00 and walking back into town.
As I walk around Cherbourg it is a strange feeling to think that exactly 70 years ago my father was here, but under very different circumstances. Had lunch at 12:00 at 'Le Narval' café overlooking the marina. Very good omelette and chips for 5.50 euros and coffee 2.90 euros. Very relaxing eating al fresco in the sunshine.
I got to train station in plenty of time at 12:45 and boarded the train at about 13:15. Left Cherbourg on time at 13:46. Travelled through lush green countryside, stopping at Volognes and Carentan and arriving at Lison at 14:26 where I had to change for another train to Pontorson, leaving at 14:46. This was a SNCF Ten train stopping at St Lo, Coutances, Folligny, Avranches and arriving at Pontorson at 16:12. The train was full and I had to sit on a little 'flip up chair' near the sliding door until we got to Coutances, when a seat became vacant.
The countryside was pretty much as before, very rural, mostly grazing land. I got to Pontorson on time and after picking up some leaflets and a map from the train station, I walked a couple of hundred yards down the road to the 'Hotel de France', one which I had looked up on the internet before coming away. This morning I had inquired at my hotel in Cherbourg (which is part of Mecure) if they had a hotel in Pontorson, they did not but did have one on Mont St Michel, but wanted 97 euros a night, room only, which was a bit more than I wanted to pay.
The staff at 'Hotel de France' were very friendly and offered me a room for 58 euros per night ( I noticed from the prices on the wall, that for my room, number 6, the going rate was 85 euros per night, I just hope she hasn't got her figures mixed up). The room was a family room with a double bed and twin beds on a second floor. Everywhere was very clean and for a 2 star hotel I was very impressed.
I booked myself in for 2 nights and reserved a table for dinner tonight. I then went for a walk around the town and came across a 'Best Western' hotel offering single rooms from 45 euros. I went in to inquire but they wanted 89 euros! I returned to my hotel, happy that I had made the right decision, and got ready for dinner at 19:30.
Unbeknown to me, whilst I was in my room the weather took a turn for the worst, and it was raining as I walked from my room (which was in a separate building) to the main hotel and restaurant. To make matters worse, I had to wait at the level crossing for a train to pass!
The restaurant was fully booked with some private function, but they managed to squeeze me in, so long as I chose off the set menu. I had fish soup to start, followed by fish on a bed of vegetables, and crème Brule to finish. I was back in my room by 21:00Monday 31st May 2010
I eventually got up at 07:30, having woken several times during the night, not as I had expected by the noise of the trains passing just yards from my window. I showered and went to breakfast at 08:00. Although I had been informed breakfast was from 08:00 to 10:00, the restaurant was already busy with the party from last nights dinner. They soon finished and were boarding their coach which awaited them.
Breakfast was continental, bread, cheese, meat, fruit, croissants and cake, there was also fruit juice, coffee and tea. I had my fill and made my way over to the railway station to inquire on the bus for Mont St Michel today, and my train to Laval for tomorrow. The train station was closed, not opening until 09:00. I went back to my room and prepared for the day. I left my room again at 09:10.
At the train station, I checked on my bus, it leaves at 10:00 arriving at Mont St Michel at 10:13, bus number 6, it is run by SNCF and costs 2.20 euros. I also booked my ticket for tomorrow. the train leaves at 09:16 to Rennes, where I have to change trains, and I arrive at Laval at 11:39, cost 22.80 euros.
Bus left just after 10:00 and we arrived at Mont St Michel at about 10:15. Very impressive sight as you drive along the causeway, and the abbey looms into sight. Steep climb with many steps to get to abbey (entrance 8.50 euros), many shops and restaurants on-route, fantastic views from top. A couple of hours is enough time to see abbey, and stroll around the Mont, more time would be needed if you wished to explore all the museums, dungeons and prisons that are dotted along the streets, all at an extra cost.
The many restaurants looked inviting, but I had a large breakfast and wasn't ready for anything to eat yet. I made my way back to the entrance looking for the post office, in order that I might post the postcard I purchased earlier. On arrival at the post office I found it to be closed between 12:00 and 14:00 (it was now 12:10, typical!) I sat and rested on the rocks at the foot of the Mont, and contemplated the rest of my day.
There are a few hotels on the Mont but they tend to be expensive, a few more who advertise that they are at Mont St Michel are actually on the mainland, about a mile or so from the Mont. The Mercure being one of them (I'm glad I didn't book in there after all). My bus to return to Pontorson (which I caught after having another walk around the Mont, and finally posting my postcard) was at 14:35 and I boarded it along with 3 elderly French ladies who were travelling to Beauvoir, and an American couple who were on their way to Pontorson to catch a train, but first had to get to the Mercure hotel to pick up their luggage. The cost to them, and it seems for any of the stops on-route was 2.20 euros, the same as for myself doing the entire trip (another good reason for not having stopped at the Mercure!) The Americans would have 70 minutes to wait until the next bus. On-route there were various hotels and eating places, and interestingly, as I didn't know the French made cider, a cider museum, there was also a working windmill where you can still purchase flour.
I got back to my hotel and caught up with my writing and preparing for tomorrow, and freshened up for dinner. Although, before doing so, I had a walk around the town and purchased some bottled water for tomorrows journey. The sun was shining and it was the warmest it had been since I left home. I sat in the hotels courtyard, which was adequately furnished with patio style table, chairs and loungers. I sat soaking up the sunshine from 16:45, back to room at 17:50, had a shower and changed and was out again by 18:50.
I went to a hotel restaurant right at the end of town, 'Le Tour Brotte', and had a set menu of Pate, Braised Ham, and ice cream. This and half a bottle of red wine came to 17.80 euros. It was very good food, good service and good value. I saw a young Malaysian man (from Singapore) on way back to the hotel, who had arrived on the same train as me yesterday and was staying at the same hotel. We had a chat for a while, he was leaving for Paris tomorrow night and flying back to Singapore. I got back to hotel at 20:30 and had an early night.Tuesday 1st June 2010
Woke up at about 02:00, wide awake! (That will teach me for going to bed so early). I laid awake for about one and a half hours, just mulling over thoughts, and planning the rest of my journey. I got up at 07:15 having finally fallen back to sleep. I showered, packed my bags, and went for breakfast. I checked out of hotel at 08:45.
The area seems popular with cyclists, whilst waiting for my bus to Mont St Michel yesterday, 4 elderly Americans came off a train, resplendent in Lycra, and an array of other strange attire. Then, this morning at breakfast, the room was full of pensioners in Lycra! Now, I am of the opinion that Lycra isn't a good look on anyone, but when you reach 60, it's a definite no no. Some of them looked well into their 80s and judging from the shape and size of them, cycling isn't that good for you after all! As yesterday was very hot and sunny, this morning I did the right thing and applied my factor 25 sun cream (I should have looked out of the window first, it was pouring with rain!)
My train left on time at 09:16, with one stop at Dol de Bretagne, it arrived on time at 10:07 at Rennes, where I had to change trains, giving me an hour before the 11:05 train to Paris. I walked down the main street opposite the station, until I reached 'Jardin George'. I then turned around and retraced my steps, got back to station at 10:35. Rennes looked a bit industrialised as the train for Paris pulled out on time, and from what I saw on my short walk, it doesn't seem a very pretty town. Plenty of hotels and restaurants, although the park was nice.
I arrived in Laval at 11:39, I hadn't pre-booked a hotel so I walked around the town looking for a suitable hotel. There were several hotels, but none that I was drawn to. Following signs for hotels, eventually led me out of the town centre and on the outskirts. To make matters worse it began to rain, to make matters even worse, my umbrella was knackered, having been turned inside out in the strong wind and rain that greeted me on arrival in Cherbourg. Still, it kept the worst of the rain off me.
Finding myself a little lost, and looking for the way back to the train station, I approached a lady in the street, and in my best French asked where the train station was, she glared at me, didn't utter a word. and carried on walking. Now it could be that she wasn't French so didn't understand me, or that my French is that bad that she didn't even recognise it as French.
NB I can't even call my grasp of the French language even 'School Boy French' as I never took languages at school. My first attempt at learning French was in 1974 when I was sixteen and I went to Epernay to pick grapes for 2 weeks. I bought a Penguin French phrase book, which I still have. I taught myself a few rudimental phrases. I visited France again the following year, but after that it would be another 17 years before dusting off that old phrase book for a trip to Monte Carlo. Over the following years I travelled through France on my way to Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy and Belgium, but never staying often in France. I did buy a 'Readers Digest' 'Learn French' cassette course, but only got half way through it before losing interest. As I was spending a lot of time in Germany, I concentrated more on learning German. Even though my German isn't very good, it is better than my French!
After being snubbed by the French Lady, I came across a bus stop with a map (which I made a copy of), I got my bearings and eventually found myself back at the train station. I booked into the 2 star 'Marin Hotel' which is right opposite the station, and next door to a hotel I had dismissed almost 2 hours earlier. The cost for a single room was 48 euros. The reception area was clean and bright and my room, although basic, was clean. It directly faced the train station. The gentleman who checked me in spoke good English and was very friendly, he informed me that continental breakfast could be purchased for 6.50 euros.
I sorted some things out in my room, then went back to the station to book my ticket for tomorrow on the TGV (fast train) leaving at 09:52 for Lille, arriving in Lille at 13:40, the cost was 69.20 euros. I was given a window seat, number 22 in coach 6.
NB Now, what I didn't realise earlier today when I boarded the TGV in Rennes, I had been allocated a seat, as on a plane, but I just sat in the first available seat. Luckily no one came to claim it, so I stayed there for the entire journey, oblivious to my mistake. I sensed something wasn't quite right when I noticed other passengers checking their tickets and seat numbers, oh well, you live and learn!
After purchasing my ticket, I went for another walk, this time I chose the right way and didn't get lost. I walked across the river to a park with a war memorial with a copy of the speech made by General de Gaulle whilst he was in exile in London in 1940.
I had dinner at 'Le Duplex' on Allee de Cambras. I had a Caesar Salad for 8.70 euros, it was enormous and had just about everything in it, topped off with a fried egg and half a baguette. A slow wander back to the hotel, and another early night. I have done a lot of walking today, and a lot of thinking and planning, I need the rest.Wednesday 2nd June 2010
I got up at 07:30 and had a shower, went into town at 08:00 and walked to the park, where I purchased a rather large ham and cheese baguette and a bottle of water, and had my breakfast al-fresco in the park. I got back to hotel at 09:00 and checked out.
I think I have finally sussed out this TGV seat reservation thing, your ticket shows the coach (voiture) number and seat (place assise). On the platform, you have to look for a letter which denotes where your coach will stop ( this doesn't seem to be a precise science, but it will put you in the rough area). So, I stood on the platform at the allocated point and only had to walk a few further feet when the train arrived to find Voiture 6. I then found seat 22 (a window seat, as requested), however, it was already occupied by an elderly French woman, so I sat myself down in seat 21 (an aisle seat) as I couldn't be bothered, and lacked the linguistic skills to inform her of her error. As it turns out I was probably better off in the aisle seat as it was easier to get up and move around the train when I wanted. Also, it wasn't as if there was much to see out of the window, the French countryside in this area is not that much different to that of Essex, which I know so well.
The train had a buffet serving snacks and hot and cold drinks. The journey would be about 4 hours and would cover somewhere in the region of 300 miles. With stops at Le Mans, Massy TGV, Marne la Vallee Ghessy, Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport and Haute Picardie, it would arrive at Lille Europe on time at 13:40.
On arrival in Lille, I did what I so often do when first arriving at a new destination, and went directly to the tourist information desk, to pick up a free map of Lille. The assistant informed me that it was just a short 5 minute walk to the city centre.
Before heading off into the city, I went to inquire about my onward journey to Wroclaw. At the ticket office they could not book me all the way through to Wroclaw, saying I would have to get my ticket in Berlin for Wroclaw. They could only book me from Lille to Paris, and Paris to Berlin on the overnight sleeper. I wasn't sure if I wanted to leave Lille on Friday or Saturday, but when they informed me that if I left Saturday I could have a couchette for less than the normal price of a seat, I was sold! I booked it for Saturday at a cost of 128.60 euros ( I will of course be saving on a nights hotel bill by travelling overnight).
I left feeling pleased with my purchase, and started my search for a hotel (this is when my luck runs out). Very close to the station is the hotel 'Lille Europe', a 2 star hotel that I had seen on the internet at home, before leaving. It didn't look very inviting from outside, a rather square block of steel and glass, and the tariff stated 92 euros for a single room, a little more than I wanted to pay! I walked through the main square and eventually found 'The Mecure', their tariff stated 155 euros for a single room! The next half an hour consisted of me calling into some of the cheaper hotels ( one stated rooms from 37 euros, but I got to the top of the stairs, saw the state of the place, and made a quick retreat).
None of the hotels could take me tonight as they were all fully booked. I ended up back at the 'Hotel Lille Europe' (which incidentally, turned out to be far nicer inside than the exterior would make you think). Thankfully, they could take me tonight, but are full tomorrow! I booked in for the one night at 92 euros, hoping that I will be able to find something else for the next 2 nights. It was now 14:30 and my room wouldn't be ready for an hour, so I sat in the very comfortable lounge and caught up with writing this journal.Next to the lounge was the breakfast area which also had a vending machine for snacks and drinks, which included a microwave fish and rice dinner for one (microwave was supplied). There was also a small library with internet access. I got into my room at about 15:30 and just threw my bags in (room looked nice from what I saw of it, on 7th floor, overlooking a park).I hot footed it to the tourist information office to inquire on hotels, no rooms at all in Lille city centre over next 2 days, but I managed to book into the 'Citotel Nord Hotel' in the south of Lille, which I can get to on the metro. Cost for 2 nights 116 euros. The young man also gave me information on the military hospital in Lille, and a museum on the resistance. He also showed me some photographs on the internet of French soldiers marching through Lille in June 1940 after the German occupation.I went back to my hotel and had a bath, then walked back to the square to get dinner. Plenty of eating places offering inside or al-fresco, similar menus, similar prices, with 'Plat du Jour' from about 8.40 euros, and pizzas and pasta at about the same price. I was looking at one 'Plat du Jour' special menu, when the staff tempted me in with an offer of a free aperitif, how could I refuse? I had my whiskey aperitif followed by another large salad (I'm certainly getting my 5 a day!) with ham, Parma ham and pate, a basket of bread, a cold drink and a coffee, all for the princely sum of 10.90 euros.Lille is really busy, hence the lack of hotel rooms. It is a nice city, with nice squares and old buildings, but there were a lot of beggars around, although, when I walked around in the evening after the crowds had gone, so had the beggars! (business over for the day). The city was quite untidy, with a lot of litter about, free leaflets and newspapers strewn everywhere. A great pity, as it is a nice city. I walked back to my hotel via the park and Garre du Lille Europe.Thursday 3rd June 2010
I got up between 07:00 and 07:30 and had a bath, I left hotel at about 08:30 to go for a walk and take some photos. I was walking back to the hotel, via the park, when I decided to go to the train station to try and get a photo of a TGV train. Good idea! for as I approached the stairs to go up to the station, I found a 10 euro note (that will pay for lunch!) I got my photo and on the way back to the hotel, I spent 2.50 euros of my windfall on a coffee and a bottle of water. I got back to hotel at 09:30, packed and left at 10:00.NBThere are 2 train stations in Lille, just a couple of minutes walk apart. 'Lille Europe' where I arrived yesterday caters for the intercity TGV and Eurostar, and 'Lille Flandres', where I will get my train to Paris on Saturday, caters for some TGV trains and most local trains.I went to the old military hospital, which is now the Notary Office for Administrations. Before doing so, I visited the church next door. A very nice lady at the Notary Office gave me some information on the building and when I showed her photos of Dad (photos I thought could have been taken at the hospital), she took me outside and we found the exact spot where Dad stood for the photo.I then went back to the tourist information to thank Greg, who had helped me yesterday, and to show him the photos etc. He was busy in the back office but another assistant called him on the phone and I spoke with him. Greg asked me to call back in 30 minutes, which I did. He was very interested and confirmed that it was the right hospital, and that Dad had been moved between 2 different hospitals (1 no longer standing), and a steel works which is still a military building. Greg gave me his email address and asked me to keep him abreast of my discoveries. Some days are better than others, and today is proving to be a good one, certainly better than yesterday.I decided to spend the rest of my earlier windfall and went for lunch at 'Le Rihours' at 'Place Rihour'. A lemonade and Croque Monsieur set me back 6.80 euros. I then went on to 'Rue Masurel', where Greg thinks the other hospital use to be, but no longer is. I went in the 'Cathedale Notre- Dame De La Treille' which was at the end of the street. From there, I walked to 'Caserne Kleber' off of 'Rue Du Pont Neuf'. I spoke to a civilian lady and a female soldier, and was informed that I could not take photos as it was military land. The civilian lady suggested I look around the 'Citedel', although, again, she said I would not be allowed to take photos as it is also military land.I walked to the 'Citedel' but although interesting and a pleasant walk, it held no significance for me. I did see a sign which was paying homage to some French military of the 'Citedel' who in September 1941 put up some resistance to the Germans. It is a well fortified place, with a moat (and nowadays an electric fence running alongside the moat to keep unwanted visitors out).I needed to get to my next hotel, which will be my home for the next 2 nights. It is in the south of the city on 'Rue Du Faubourg D' Arras'. I took the exit out of 'Parc De Loisirs De La Citadelle' which took me out onto 'Rue Solferino'. I followed this very long road (at least a mile), down to 'Rue Du Faubourg D'Arras', and arrived at my hotel at about 16:00, it had taken an hour to walk from the 'Citadelle'. I checked the mileage later and it was about 2 and a half miles.I settled into my room and caught up on this journal. I went out to dinner at 19:00, and as I felt I had already done a marathon today, I didn't want to walk miles looking for a place to eat, so I asked at reception, and was given directions to a French restaurant (now, there's a surprise!) 150 yards down the road on the left. When I found the restaurant it was closed, so I continued to walk and found a second one, this one was open and although it looked ok, there was no one in the restaurant (not a good sign!) so I continued walking for about half a mile, turned around, crossed the street, and walked back towards the hotel.Eventually, I found a pizzeria and although it would mean overdosing on the cheese today (remember, I had a croque Monsieur for lunch), I was desperate and my feet wanted me to eat! I ordered a margarita which came in small or large priced at 6 euro and 9 euro. I didn't specify the size, and when the massive plateful was put in front of me I assumed it was the large, however, when I came to pay, the pizza, a bottle of water and a bottle of coke came to 8 euros! As it happens, I couldn't eat all the pizza, so 2 slices were kindly wrapped up in tin foil for me to have later. I got back to hotel at 20:30.I've just remembered a couple of things as I lay here, trying to get to sleep. I feel that I should explain that if this journal seems a bit disjointed at times, it is because I don't always get the chance to write things down as they happen, and then I forget things, only to remember them at times like this. (still by the time anyone gets to read this, I would have tidied it all up and everything will be in it's proper place, or maybe not!)Not surprisingly, as this whole journey is about my dad, I had a dream about him on Sunday night, it was strange, I was in the front room of my parent's house and the front door blew open, I went to the door and was surprised to find my father standing on the doorstep. I was surprised as in my dream he was supposed to be in hospital, which in reality he had been on two occasions leading up to his death. I never got to the bottom of things in my dream, as at that point I woke up.Another thing, I think I have mentioned that Greg from the Tourist Information has an interest in WW2. When I saw him today he informed me that he was very excited as he had been given details of an 83 year old French lady who at the age of 13 was put to work as a cook to the occupying German army. He hopes to interview her for his research.Yet another thing, I haven't said much about the hotel yet. Well! it isn't in the best of areas, a long way from anything, it isn't the best looking building you could wish for, but it is reasonably clean, and at 58.90 euros a night, reasonably priced. The young lady at reception spoke good English and was polite and helpful. There is a very small bar in the foyer and a breakfast area, that's about it really. Oh! I was on the 4th floor, overlooking the main street. Right! I think that's it, I'm going to try to get to sleep now.Friday 4th June 2010
Well! I did manage to get to sleep in the end, and I had the best nights sleep I've had since I've been away, it must have been all that walking yesterday. I got up at 07:00, had a bath and packed a smaller nap sack to carry with me today (it's a relief not to have to carry my heavier ruck sack, although it only weighs about 8kg, it is still a lot to carry around all the time, and my shoulder was beginning to ache a bit yesterday, a problem as I suffer from a bad back and also have problems with my neck).
I left the hotel at 08:15, it took me 45 minutes to walk to 'Lille Flandres' railway station. There, I inquired about getting to St Valery, as that is where my father was actually captured by the Germans. The story goes, that he was in a small boat with some other men, trying to escape, when they were shelled by the Germans. This is how my father became injured and ended up in the military hospital in Lille. I don't know all the injuries that he sustained, but he did suffer from a perforated ear drum, which gave him hearing problems throughout his life, and was the reason he was discharged from the army at the end of the war.
Anyway, getting back to the present, it seems that it is not really possible to get to St Valery and back today. I would have had to catch the 09:02 train to 'Paris Nord', arriving at 10:02, then get across Paris to 'Paris St Lazare' to catch the 10:50 train to Yvetot, arriving at 12:24, catch another train at 12:45, finally arriving in St Valery at 13:32. What I should have done (hindsight is a wonderful thing) is to have arranged a hotel in Paris tonight, I could have left for Paris this morning, gone to St Valery for the day, stayed in Paris tonight, and continued my journey onto Berlin on Saturday as booked. Oh well! it was never on my original itinerary, it's just that I was looking at what to do today, and if it was possible, it would have been interesting.
I left the train station and went to a café for a coffee and croissant (1.70 euros). Before leaving the café, I thought I'd make use of the W.C. the door was locked with a large sign on it, with my limited French, I managed to deduce that you had to get the staff to unlock it for you, obviously, they didn't want the general public making use of their facilities. I spoke to the lady behind the counter, and at a push of a button, she unlocked the door for me.
Afterwards, I sat in the park and contemplated what to do, and decided on a 'chill out' day, maybe take in a museum or art gallery. I also decided that I would try to leave Lille on an earlier train tomorrow, as I am pretty much finished with Lille, and would rather spend some time in Paris, especially as at the moment, I only have 1 hour between trains in Paris, and I would rather not be rushed. I thought about going to the station now to make the changes, but remembered that I did not have my train tickets with me as I had left my main ruck sack at the hotel. So I plan to come to the station early tomorrow, and try to make the changes.
Whilst I was in the park, I received, and replied to, a text from my son who lives in Hamburg Germany, he was wondering how I was getting on. I also phoned my wife to update her on my progress, whilst I was speaking to my wife, I was approached by a French girl asking me the time, although she could clearly see and hear me deep in conversation (in English) on the phone. I held my arm out, showing her my watch, and continued with my conversation (well! at 35p a minute, I wasn't going to waste a second.
I often tend to stray from the usual tourist routes when I'm away, and it often pays off with me finding some beautiful buildings or some peaceful tranquillity. So, I headed away from the main streets and throngs of tourists, and soon found myself at a university, not that interesting, but slap bang in the middle of all these modern university buildings is a beautiful old church. I sat in its grounds, taking in its splendour. I then followed directions to 'Le Grand Palais', expecting to find a palace of some description, however, it turned out to be an exposition and congress building! It was grand, but no palace!
Well! I've seen it all now, I'm used to seeing car windscreen washers at traffic lights, and have seen on TV beggars, in 3rd world countries, going from car to car, but I have never, until now, seen buskers at traffic lights! An elderly gentleman was walking up the middle of the street, playing an accordion to the occupants of the stationary vehicles, meanwhile a young boy went from car to car, in the hope of some remuneration.
Just after 13:00, a short walk from 'Lille Grand Palais', I stopped for some lunch at 'Au Bureau'. 'Plat du Jour' was filet de hoki in sauce citron, priced at 8.40 euros it came with mixed vegetables, rice, and salad, with a basket of bread. A little more than I would usually eat at this time of day, but I didn't fancy the alternative, sandwiches or pizza. The food was of a good quality and I managed to get through most of it.
During my wanderings back towards my hotel, I came across the 'Platen Parc and Botanical Gardens' (I'd given up on the idea of visiting a museum or art gallery as I had already failed to find 2 museums that I had hoped to visit). Evidently, there have been botanical gardens here since the 17th century. They were well laid out gardens, and the hothouse was of a tropical nature. The only complaint that I had was that as I had now run out of drinking water, and was beginning to get thirsty, there was nowhere to purchase a drink. A café or vending machine, or even a water fountain would have been nice,but alas there were none to be found!
After looking around the hothouse and gardens, I found a nice little spot and sat down to rest. As I sat there, in the beautiful June Sunshine, my mind wandered, and I found myself wondering what sort of day it was 70 years ago when the Royal Signals saw action against the Germans, and my father escaped, only to end up being shelled in a boat at St Valery 8 days later. I wondered what was going through the minds of that young 21 year old Englishman, so far from home and his loved ones?
It was just a 10 minute walk back to my hotel from the park, although I continued walking past it as I wanted to find a shop to get some water. I have never been so pleased to see an Aldi sign, I eagerly entered the store and purchased a 1.5 litre bottle of clod drink, a 2 litre bottle of water, 3 bananas and a pack of chicken sandwiches (that will do me for supper). The entire purchase came to 1.87 euros (a 50ml bottle of water at the restaurant earlier was 2.70 euros) Unbelievable prices, why didn't I spot the Aldi store last night?
I took my purchases back to my hotel room, it was now 17:15. The first thing I did was have a long 'wallow' in the bath, and rehydrate myself with fluids. I wouldn't be venturing out again today as I have a lot of things to sort out for my journey tomorrow, charge up camera and phone, and pack. I also want to try and lighten my load a little. I came away with some old shirts that once finished with wearing, could be thrown away (I've already ditched 2 shirts). I also brought an old towel with me in case it was needed, I used it today to sit on in the park, and as I doubt I will need it again, that can go.
You would think that my bag would be a little lighter with what I have already thrown away, but it doesn't feel it, probably because I have been collecting a lot of leaflets and maps along the way, I guess they are compensating for what I've thrown away. The umbrella will be ditched before flying out of Wroclaw, it's just about had it, thankfully, I have not needed it since Laval, but I had better keep it for the time being as a broken umbrella has to be better than no umbrella.
NB
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Saturday 5th June 2010
I got up at 06:45 and had a bath before finishing my packing, I had a banana for breakfast and left the hotel at 08:00. The streets of Lille were a lot quieter on a Saturday morning at 08:00, not so much traffic to dodge when crossing the road. Now I know the way and I don't need to keep stopping to look at the map, it only took me 35 minutes to walk to 'Lille Flandres' station. I exchanged my ticket to Paris for one leaving at 10:00, it cost 10 euros to do the exchange.
I sat outside the station, by the fountains, and took in the surroundings. Opposite where I sat was 'A 'L' Hotel de Londres' (this was the 2 star hotel where I made a hasty retreat whilst looking for a hotel). Greg (from the tourist information office) had informed me that Lille is usually busier during the week than it is at weekends, hence the reason why I found it so difficult to get a hotel mid-week. It was much quieter today than it was when I arrived in Lille, even the beggers seem to have taken the day off.
The train left on time at 10:00, I found my seat eventually, the coaches were not numbered very clearly. It was interesting to watch the other passengers looking for their seats, even the French seemed to have problems with the system! I saw a few people settle into seats, only to be evicted a few minutes later by the real occupants of that seat.
On arrival in 'Paris Gare du Nord' I went to the information desk to pick up a free map. I toyed with the idea of leaving my luggage at luggage as I have done on a previous trip to Paris, but as I only have a small ruck sack, I decided to keep it with me. My train tonight departs from 'Gare du Est', which was only a ten minute walk away, so I decided to walk there and check it out.
Having checked out 'Gare du Est', I walked down 'Boulevard de Strasbourg', I then cut through to 'Rue du Faubourg St Martin' where I had lunch at 'Café Richard'. I had Croque Monsieur and a coffee. The Croque Monsieur wasn't as good as the one that I had in Lille, although it did come with a big salad which was reasonably fresh (unlike most of the salads that I have had in France so far).
After lunch, I walked to the 'Pompidou Centre. Having miss-read the signs outside the centre, I entered thinking it was free entry, it turned out that it is free entry tomorrow! Due to time restraints, I decided against looking around all the galleries, and instead just looked around the reception area and perimeter. Whilst walking around outside the area, I was approached by a young girl, she didn't say anything, but pointed to her mouth and ears to inform me she was deaf and dumb. She then held up a clip board which had a form on it, although it was in French, I understood enough to understand she was asking for donations, I politely declined, as I am always wary of people canvassing in the streets. The young girl was very persistent and walked with me a while, only giving up when it was clear I was not going to relent. No sooner had she given up, than another young girl did the same thing, until she was called away by yet another young girl. Amazingly, although she had indicated to me that she was deaf and dumb, she had heard her friend calling her. A scam for sure!
I walked on to 'Rue Pierre-Lescot', which has a rather impressive modern municipal building with landscaped gardens. Unfortunately, what could be a beautiful area has been taken over by people sleeping rough, with areas turned into a carboard city, and the smell of urine around the building ( I actually came across a man urinating up against a wall as I looked around). I have never found Paris to be a very clean city, but I really do feel it is getting worse.
A little further on I came to a nice church with very nice grounds, so I sat there on a bench for a while admiring the view. As I did so, 4 French Policeman came by on bicycles, it looked strange to see 4 armed men on bicycles, with their little cycle helmets, and with batons and pistols clearly on display.
I then walked to the 'Louvre'. A beautiful palace with its iconic glass pyramid and wonderful fountains. I didn't go into the art gallery, instead I joined the many other visitors who were enjoying the cooling waters of the fountains, by sitting around the edge, with their bare feet in the water. Well! when in Rome (or in this case Paris). I can't begin to tell you how good it felt to put my tired old feet in that cooling water, it was sheer bliss. Reluctantly, I had to eventually put on my socks and shoes, and make my way back to 'Gare du Nord', where I purchased a salami baguette and a cold drink for 6.30 euros. I then made my way to 'Gare du Est' to catch the 20:20 overnight sleeper train to Berlin, which left 15 minutes late.
I located my couchette, I had a middle bunk in a compartment sleeping 6 (last time I travelled on a sleeper train, from Paris to Venice, I was in a similar couchette but it was only being used to sleep 4 people, much more room!) Having made my bed and stowing away my bag, I went to the restaurant car and enjoyed a nice cold beer, very refreshing after a long, hot, sticky day, walking around Paris. I was the first customer in the bar and was surprised when the bartender spoke to me in German, I then realised that the service was run by the German railway, not the French.
As I sat down with my beer, an announcement was made asking people to stay in their seats whilst the train crew checked tickets, well! I wasn't going to desert my beer to return to my couchette, so I remained where I was, the ticket inspector caught up with me eventually in the bar. Over the next hour, the restaurant and bar filled up, mostly with Germans, but also a couple of Americans and at least one French girl. The bar staff only spoke German and English, so it was strange to see the French girl ordering something in French, in her own country, only to be asked if she spoke English! It was like being in a little bit of Germany, but in France. After a second beer, I retired for the night.
We were supplied with a pillow, sheet and blanket, but as it was so warm, I just slept on top of the covers, remaining in my clothes. The train was due to stop at Gonningen, Hanover, and 3 other stops. Parts of the train were due to split off and go onto Munich as well as Moscow and Belarus. I noticed a few other stops during the night, one being Mannheim, whether these were scheduled stops or not, I don't know.
Sunday 6th June 2010
I had a fitful sleep, although the bunk was quite comfortable. I got up at 06:15 to freshen up, and went to breakfast, bread roll, croissant, jam, honey, and a coffee for 4.20 euros. As I sat having breakfast, we pulled into Hanover, I overheard the bartender telling an American that the front of the train was detaching, and going on to Hamburg.We arrived in Berlin on time and I made a mad dash to the ticket office. It took a little while to find, but once I had, I was quickly seen and bought my ticket to Wroclaw for 49.70 euros, the train was due to depart at 09:35, arriving in Wroclaw at 15:18.I was given directions to the correct platform, and once there, I consulted the signage to ascertain the position on the platform that my coach would stop. My train was already at the platform so I immediately boarded and settled into my allocated seat. The train left on time and after a short while the ticket inspector came through checking tickets. I asked him where the buffet car was and he informed me that there wasn't one! Unbelievable, that on a journey of this length, that there isn't a buffet car. Good thing I had breakfast on the sleeper train, and I have a bottle of water with me.Another new experience for me! I have just been to the WC on the train and the soap dispenser is like a pepper pot grinder, it grinds a bar of soap into little flakes as you turn the handle.I'm not sure at what point we left Germany and entered Poland, but about one and a half hours into our journey, the scenery changed from lush meadows to thick forest, with tall fir trees on both sides of the track. I also started to notice signs which were written in Polish. However, after a while, I consulted my map, and we were only just over the border. This became evident when the German train guard was replaced by two Polish train guards, who came through the train checking tickets.As I have been on a train since 20:20 last night, with very little walking about, after about 2 and a half hours, I decided to stretch my legs and walk around the carriage which was partly fitted out with seats, and partly for bicycle storage. I remained standing for a while in the bicycle area, as this offered better views of the passing scenery. I could see amongst the tress, clusters of wild lupins which brought a splash of colour to an otherwise green landscape. I also saw a large deer in the undergrowth, not more than 4 yards from the track.Finally arrived at Wroclaw about 5 or 10 minutes late. I couldn't find a tourist information office or hotel booking point anywhere, and whilst looking, I found myself on the street by the station exit. A bottled water company were handing out free bottles of their flavoured water, I took a bottle gladly, as I was very thirsty, having run out of water, and the train having been like a hot house. It was so hot on the train that people were fanning themselves with magazines in an attempt to keep cool, and at one point, after several complaints, one of the guards went through the carriage, unlocking and opening all the windows. It made little difference, and shortly afterwards the other guard came through, closing them all again! I guess he realised that the air conditioning would not work properly if the windows are open.With no map and no way of knowing which direction the old town is, or where the bulk of hotels were, all I could do was follow my nose! In doing so, I came across another group of workers handing out bottles of water, so I accepted another two bottles, and a little while later a third. At least I won't go thirsty.I saw a hotel which my wife had texted me the details of a few days ago. I knew the quality and prices of this hotel, and now knew where it was located, so I continued to walk on looking for other hotels to compare it with. I passed one other which looked very nice and was 4 star. As I am on a budget, I decided to hold this one in reserve. After a while, having not found any other suitable hotels, I returned to the first one which was 3 star. I booked myself into The ' Silfor Premium Europejski' at a cost of 229 Zloty a night (about £51).After a bit of a palaver with my room key (they had a problem with the computer system), an elderly gentleman showed me to my room. He spoke no English, I speak no Polish, so we conversed in German. Once in my room, he made a show of checking everything was ok, however, he had a problem with the lights, until I pointed out to him that he needed to put my key in the light switch point, for them to work. He laughed and thanked me and made some comment about everything going wrong today. He shook my hand, and left. Five minutes later, he was back with a new key, as the one he had left was his master key. Again, he shook my hand and left.Having been travelling since 20:20 last night, I needed to freshen up before getting something to eat. As I stood under the warm water of the shower, I once again thought back to some of the POW accounts of when they were being marched to the camps, days or weeks at a time, and moved around from one camp to another, some with better facilities than others. If they were lucky enough to get a camp with hot showers, they found it bliss, as they washed away weeks or even months of dirt and grime, not to mention infestations. I hadn't had a bath or shower since yesterday morning, and I felt 100% better after this one, what must those poor guys have felt like?I walked to the old town and found a street café to have some dinner. Spinach Lasagne and a beer cost 27 Zloty (about £6). I walked around the main square and took a few photos. It appeared that I had just missed a cheese and wine festival, as the last of the stalls were packing up. I went to the 'Mecure Hotel' to book 2 nights (Monday and Tuesday) in Opole. They wanted 360 Zloty, I bartered them down to 338 Zloty.I then returned to my hotel for the night, before turning in, I booked this hotel again for Wednesday night, my last night in Poland, before I fly back to the UK on Thursday. With all my accommodation sorted for the rest of my stay, I can now concentrate on what I came here for. I intend to look at the museum in Opole tomorrow, and travel to Lamsdorf on Tuesday.Monday 7th June 2010
Got up at 07:00, had shower, then had to make some repairs, sewing on a button on a pair of trousers, and reinforcing the stitching on the straps to my ruck sack. Unfortunately I had been unable to make the repairs before now, as the sewing kit that I thought I had brought with me turned out to be a manicure set. (still! you should see my nails, lovely!) Luckily there was a sewing kit in the hotel room, so I set about my repairs, not expertly executed, but I'm sure it will last another 4 days. I also made some repairs to myself, applying a plaster to a rather nasty blister on my left foot.When I booked the hotel yesterday, I did so on a room only basis, as I had done with the majority of my hotels on this trip. My intention was to have breakfast elsewhere, but as my feet were still sore, and all the restaurants were at least a 10 minute walk in the opposite direction to the train station, where I would be heading when I check out, I decided to have breakfast in the hotel.On returning to my room, I failed to shut the door properly, this resulted in an alarm sounding until I had firmly shut the door. Once I had packed my bag (for the umpteenth time!), I checked out and made my way to the train station, as I walked out of the hotel foyer, I was greeted by a downfall of rain. I retreated back into the hotel to take off sun glasses and sun hat, and instead, put on rain coat, and get out the knackered umbrella (good job I didn't throw it away in Lille).The train station at Wroclaw is undergoing some renovation, with the old, rather grand, building not being used at the moment. What they have instead, is a temporary station, a perfectly good brick building, but it can take some finding! Once at the station, it was quick and easy to get my ticket to Opole, which I did from one of the many ticket windows. The ticket cost 16 Zloty (about £3.75) for a journey of an hour. The train was due to leave at 10:08, but left a few minutes late. I wasn't sure if my ticket included a reserved seat or not, I scrutinised the ticket, and on finding a number, I went to the corresponding seat. However, that seat was already occupied, so I sat in the seat opposite.We arrived in Opole at 11:08, roughly on time. I made my way to the 'Mecure Hotel', which was visible from the train station. I checked in, had a refreshing cup of green tea in my room, and caught up on this journal. The museum that I want to visit closes at 15:00, so that is my next move.I left the hotel at about 12:15, it had stopped raining and the sun was once again showing his face. I walked to the museum, which took a little finding as it is tucked away, down a side street. It is a modern building and there is some construction work going on around it. I entered, and an elderly man approached me. When I asked him if he spoke English, he answered in German, asking me to wait a minute, he then spoke to someone on the telephone. After a short while, a young woman appeared, arm outstretched, ready to shake my hand. I explained the reason for my visit, and she in turn, explained that there was very little to see at the museum as it was 'a work in progress', and at the moment it was really just a library, where wartime documents are stored.She offered to show me a film about Lamsdorf, and took me to the library, where a male colleague of hers put the video on for me. Whilst I was watching the film, the young woman returned with a cup of coffee for me, and details of the trains to and from Lamsdorf (I didn't have the heart to tell her that I already had the train times). The film was very moving, with many photos taken during, and after liberation. It focussed on the Polish and Russian POWs.When the film was over, I inquired if it was possible to purchase a copy of the film, I was informed that it would be possible to purchase one at the Lambinovice museum (Lamsdorf). I was also told that the Lambinovice museum had already been told about me, and that someone from the museum would meet me there tomorrow at 10:00. The film, and the kindness of the museum staff, had moved me, and I admit to walking away from there with tears in my eyes.I walked to the 'Staw Zamkowy', a beautiful lake with fountains and gardens, and a rather handsome restaurant (I'll bear that in mind for later). I sat, taking in the sunshine, and thinking about my journey, all I have done so far, and all that I still have to do, and of course, my father is never far from my thoughts. I had explained to the museum staff that I had copies of my father's wartime records, and some photos, they asked me to take them with me tomorrow, as the museum would like to have some copies.I wandered around the old town before returning to the hotel, calling in at the train station on the way to check on where to get my ticket in the morning. I looked around the shops at the station to see if they were selling postcards ( I haven't seen any yet, and I want to send my son a postcard from Poland). Opole, on the whole, seems a very clean town, prettier than Wroclaw, it many old buildings and plenty of open air dining. There is also a very good, modern shopping centre.Back at the hotel, still minus a postcard! I had another cup of tea whilst catching up on my journal. I had a shower to freshen up, and then went out to dinner. I went to the restaurant by the lake (Piramida) and was served a massive plate of fish and chips, with onion rings, lettuce, and sour kraut, washed down with a local beer, all for just 25 Zloty (about £5.75). I got back to the hotel at 21:15, and arranged a wake up call for 06:30Tuesday 8th June 2010
My mobile phone alarm went off at 06:30, followed shortly afterwards by my hotel wake up call. Neither were necessary, as I had already been awake since 05:30, after a night of fitful sleep. I went down to breakfast at 07:00. There were a group of middle aged Germans at breakfast, no doubt on a package tour, Poland seems to be a popular destination for the Germans as it is only a short drive over the border, and everything is so cheap. Apart from the Germans, I haven't noticed any other foreign tourists, and haven't heard an English accent at all. I left the hotel at 08:15 and went to the train station to get my ticket, and then to the post office, where I finally managed to get a postcard, I wrote it and posted it immediately.The train to Lambinovice was surprisingly modern and clean, and resembled a tram or metro train, it was certainly an improvement on my previous train journeys in Poland. The train left at 09:05, bound for Nysa, it made several stops before arriving in Lambinovice at 09:55 (7 minutes late).I walked to the nearby post office to get directions to the museum. I spoke to a lady who was waiting in the queue ahead of me, but she didn't understand English. There was a gentleman in front of her, and after he had finished, the lady moved forward and spoke to the lady behind the counter, she then gestured to me to go first. The lady behind the counter gave me directions to the museum, once I had shown her a picture of the museum.I left the post office and began to walk in the direction that I had been instructed to take. The gentleman, who had been in the post office, called to me from across the road, "Museum?" he inquired, I answered, and he gestured to his car. I got into the car with him and we set off for the museum. He spoke very little English, but enough to tell me that he learnt Russian at school and that the only English he knew, he had learnt from the movies. He very kindly took me all the way to the museum, which seemed a lot further than the 20 minute walk I had been led to believe it was. I thanked him profusely, and entered the museum.I was met by a young Polish lady who informed me that two other Englishmen would join us on the tour, and that they were watching the film (the one I saw in Opole yesterday), and she asked if I wished to join them. I said I wouldn't as I had already seen the film. I asked to purchase a copy of the film, which cost me 15 Zloty. I then showed her my father's paperwork, which she made copies of for her colleague Anna, who was researching the English POWs for a book she is writing.We then joined the other two men to continue the tour. John and Nick were old army mates, and were touring on their motorbikes. Nicks father had been at Stalag VIII B at the same time as my father. We viewed the exhibits of photos, models and replica POW bunks, and then hired a minibus and driver, along with the young lady to act as our guide, to tour the camp sites. We were taken to the site of Stalag VIII B and to the cemetery, we also went to the railway station, which of course, I had already seen. After viewing the train station, we were about to return to the museum when I suggested that I remain at the station (to save me a walk back), as the tour was now finished. John, Nick and I arranged to meet up later in Opole at 19:00 to have dinner together. I paid the driver 10 Zloty, and paid another 50 Zloty for the museum tour. I had already purchased a museum guide book for 8 Zloty. I walked around Lambinovice for a while, then purchased my train ticket. It was now 13:30 and as my train wasn't until 15:13, I found somewhere to sit and rest, and catch up on my journal.I arrived at the restaurant 'Maska' on time, John and Nick were already there. I had a good meal of Pork, dumplings and red cabbage, a local dish called 'Silesian Roulade'. The three of us chatted over dinner about the days events and our fathers experiences. We left the restaurant at about 21:30 and I walked with John and Nick to their hotel. I hadn't been to that area of Opole yet and they assured me it was very pretty at night, with the bridge beside their hotel lit up. They were right, it was very pretty, I took some photos, then John and Nick invited me into the hotel for a drink on the rooftop terrace, this was serviced by a small bar. From the terrace, John and Nick pointed out their motorbikes, parked in the car park below, how envious was I? I left their hotel at about 22:45 and arrived back at my own hotel at 23:00. I fell asleep pretty much immediately and had a decent nights sleep.Wednesday 9th June 2010
After what was a pretty good nights sleep, I awoke at 06:00, but as I had no need to get up early, I rested for another hour and got up at 07:00. After a shower, I went down to breakfast where I noticed that the German package holiday makers had been replaced by a couple of German businessmen, apart from John and Nick, I have still yet to see any English tourists.
I decided to walk to the 'Amfiteatr Im Tysigclecia', which I assumed was a amphitheatre. I followed the route on the map but couldn't find it, there area where I thought it should be was under construction. I walked along the river and came to the point where the river 'Odra' meets the 'Kanal Mynowka' (this is where the hotel John and Nick were staying at is located). I walked on to an area I hadn't visited before and came across a church on a steep hill. From the church, I had nice views of the town below. I then walked around the grounds of Opole University, before returning to my hotel to pack and check out.
I left the hotel at about 11:00, feeling pleased with what I had accomplished on this trip. I caught the 11:23 to Wroclaw. On arrival at Wroclaw I made my way to the 'Silfor Hotel' (where I had stayed on my first night in Poland. I checked in, changing my booking of room only to include breakfast. I was given the key card to room 405 and I took the lift to the 4th floor. On trying my key in the door, a red light showed, and the door refused to open. I had a similar problem on my last stay here, I returned to reception and the young lady behind reception did something on the computer, then asked me to try again. On first attempt the door failed to open, but after trying it with the card facing opposite directions, it finally opened. My room was much bigger than the one I had on my last visit, it also had a balcony overlooking the main street.
I walked to the main square and had my dinner at 'Pod Gryfami'. I had salmon and salad with a chive dressing, this was probably the best meal that I have had since I have been away. Whilst I was having dinner there was music and dancing in the square. Later, I watched stilt artists dancing and fire eating.
I took a different route back to my hotel and ended up a little lost. But thanks to a kind elderly gentleman who gave me directions, I finally found my way back, arriving at the hotel at 22:00.
Thursday 10th June 2010
When I stayed at this hotel on Sunday, there was only about 4 or 5 people at breakfast on the Monday morning, in a restaurant that holds about 50 people. Today, when I went down to breakfast at 08:00, I was confronted with a restaurant full to the gunnels with school children. I ventured in and looked for an empty table, but found none. I had to wait outside the restaurant until a table became vacant, this took some time, for even though most of the children had finished eating, they remained in there seats chatting with their friends, the teachers made no attempt to hurry them along. The upside to having to wait was that once all the children had finally left, the staff replenished all the food items, so breakfast was very fresh. After a good breakfast, I returned to my room and rested for a while, with no definite plans until my flight back to the UK at 22:55, the day was mine to do as I please.
I checked out of the hotel at 10:00, leaving my rucksack behind reception, to pick up later. I walked towards the 'Stare Mietra' and then continued past it towards the river. I spent the rest of the day exploring parts of Wroclaw that I didn't get to see on my previous visit. The city is very much a mix of old and new, with some old 'communist' style buildings alongside new modern buildings and shopping complexes.
Having spent some time exploring, I returned to the area around the main square and had a late lunch, as I did so, a group of musicians were going from restaurant to restaurant, playing for the customers, there was also a family of beggars going from table to table, before a member of staff chased them away.
After looking around a craft fair and a shopping complex, I returned to my hotel to pick up my bag. I asked the receptionist to order me a taxi, and as I waited she got me a glass of ice cold water, as it was so hot today, and obviously, I looked as hot as I felt.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the airport which was about 13 km away. There was heavy traffic and a lot of roadworks. This is a new airport and as you approach it, you can still see the remains of the old airport. I paid the 45 Zloty fare, and entered what is probably the smallest airport I have ever flown from, although I understand that it is still under construction, with a completion date in 2011. I was ridiculously early, as I had run out of things to do in Wroclaw, so I had plenty of time to look around this modern building. One of the reasons that I had left for the airport so early was that it was so hot in Wroclaw, I thought it would be much cooler in the airport, I was wrong, it was stifling!
Eventually, I decided to go through to departures to see if it was any cooler there, I also wanted to get something to eat and drink, and buy a few gifts from the shops. It was indeed cooler in the departure lounge, but unfortunately there were very few shops, and they had a very limited range of goods, I did however manage to purchase the gifts that I wanted, I also managed to purchase some sandwiches and water.
The departure lounge was full to bursting as I sat waiting to board my flight, it was now just as hot as it had been in the main terminal. My flight departed from Gate 6 and thankfully was not full and I had no problem finding a good aisle seat, with a space between me and the young lady who already occupied the window seat. The flight left on time and arrived in Stansted on time. It took about 40 minutes to get through border control and finally be reunited with my wife. Following an hours drive home, a bath and a cup of tea, I finally got to bed at 03:00, tired, but glad to be home.
I had completed my journey, and things had gone better than I had hoped, especially discovering where the photographs of my father had been taken, standing in the exact spot where my father had stood 70 years previously, had to be the highlight of the trip, and a memory that will stay with me forever.
NB
Thank you for reading this journal.
Robert M Lidster
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