CHRISTMAS MARKETS

STRASBOURG CHRISTMAS MARKET

There is nothing that gets you more into the spirit of Christmas than a visit to a Christmas market, the lights, the decorations and the smell of Gluhwein all help to set the mood. Although they are becoming ever more popular in the UK, you cannot beat the Christmas markets in Germany and France. On a recent visit to Germany, staying in Hinterzarten in the heart of the Black Forest I was lucky enough to visit three Christmas markets, two in Germany and the other in France.

I had travelled independently to Germany, travelling by car via the Euro Tunnel and France. The route to Hinterzarten had taken me through Strasbourg, a journey that I had done on a few previous occasions. I had never been impressed with the little I had seen of Strasbourg as I drove through a mostly industrial area, however, I was soon to change my mind.

Strasbourg is the capital city of the Alsace region of France and is also the official seat of the European Parliament. Its close proximity to the German border has led to many German influences both in architecture and language.

First signs of human activity in the area dates back some 600,000 years and the first signs of a settlement date back to 1300 BC by Proto-Celts. In the 5^th century AD the town was held successively by both the Huns and the Franks and in 923 AD it became part of the Holy Roman Empire. For 10 months from September 1939 to June 1940 the entire town was empty having been evacuated due to the start of World War Two. It was then annexed to Germany until its liberation by the 2^nd French Armoured Division in November 1944.

Today the City has a population of over half a million and the port of Strasbourg is the 2^nd largest port on the Rhine. The historic city centre with its 12^th century Cathedral was classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988. The University of Strasbourg is the largest in France.

My trip to the Christmas market in Strasbourg had been arranged as a surprise for me by my son (an early Christmas present) and he had booked it in Hinterzarten where he lives. The trip was booked through a local German coach company called Steiert. There are many travel companies in the UK who provide package holidays to the European Christmas markets either by coach, plane or ferry. It is even possible to take a river cruise and also take in the markets, or as we did make your own independent arrangements.

My son had arranged our trip to Strasbourg on Saint Nicholas day, this is a very important saints day on the continent with many recognising it as a day to give gifts. Our day started with a taxi ride from our hotel to the train station at Hinterzarten where our coach was due to depart at 09:00. We took our seats on the comfortable modern coach and made our way to the city of Freiburg where we would pick up more passengers. Hinterzarten is over 800 metres above sea level and as we descended towards Freiburg the snow and mountains quickly disappeared and we were soon making our first stop. The driver made announcements throughout our journey, informing us of the days events, these announcements were of course in German as it was a German coach company. We also had a little German music for a while which helped make the journey even more special.

Once you cross the Rhine you are no longer in Germany but in France, and almost immediately in Strasbourg. The journey had taken about 90 minutes and we would have a further 30 minutes on the coach as we were given a tour of the city before being dropped off in the centre close to the Cathedral and Christmas market. We had approximately 5 hours of free time to explore this beautiful city.

The Christmas market in Strasbourg is one of the biggest and most famous of all the markets and there has been a market held here for several hundred years. Situated around the Cathedral in the old town, the setting is delightful. There are numerous places to eat with both German and French food available. Punch, Gluhwein and an assortment of snacks are available from the market stalls and there are many restaurants situated in the square and the side streets around the Cathedral. The Cathedral is well worth a visit, it is a beautiful building, entry is free but visiting times are restricted so as not to disturb worship.

On our return to Hinterzarten we stopped at Gengenbach to view the worlds largest advent calendar, a building in the square where a window is opened everyday to reveal a picture. We also had some free time to explore the Christmas market in Gengenbach, a very pretty spectacle as it was now nightfall and the lights of the stalls came alive in the dark. We arrived back in Hinterzarten at around 21:00 having had a wonderful day.

Whilst in Germany we also visited the Christmas market in Freiburg, as with the market in Gegenbach this wasn’t as large or as comprehensive as the one in Strasbourg but it was still well worth the visit. Strasbourg was a much more beautiful city than I had previously believed, having only seen the industrial areas as I had driven through it. I can now highly recommend a visit to this unique city at any time of the year, but if it’s a Christmas market that you are after, look no further.

TRAVEL TO FRANCE BY CAR

 

 

EURO TUNNEL/LE-SHUTTLE

Normally when I travel to France with a vehicle I choose to take the ferry. There are various reasons that I have chosen this mode of transport, firstly I am a complete fanatic when it comes to anything to do with the sea and will always jump at the chance to hop aboard a ship or boat. Secondly, I find the ferry crossing very relaxing and look upon it as part of the holiday, it is also very convenient to have a meal whilst on board, saving time by not stopping once on the road. There is also the benefit of being able to stretch your legs whilst on board and maybe do a bit of shopping, it is also normally cheaper to take the ferry than travel via Euro Tunnel.

Before my most recent trip to France, I had only been through the Euro Tunnel on four occasions, twice with a car on Le-Shuttle and twice on Eurostar. I chose to cross the Channel using Euro Tunnel on this most recent trip as it is somewhat quicker than the ferry, only 30 minutes as opposed to 90 minutes. For those of you who may not be good sailors, it also means you can avoid any rough seas and the inevitable sea sickness.

Euro Tunnel opened to the public in 1994 having cost almost £10 billion and taking 6 years to build. The tunnel runs from Folkestone in England to Calais in France, a total distance of 31.4 miles. At a distance of 23.5 miles the portion of the tunnel that runs under the sea is the longest under sea tunnel in the world. Total passenger numbers for the tunnel in 2010 was in the region of 17 million, with around 7.5 million travelling on Le-Shuttle and 9.5 million travelling on Eurostar. The train operates for 365 days of the year with up to 4 departures an hour.

For my most recent trip I booked my outward journey on-line via Euro Tunnel’s own website, I booked about 2 weeks in advance and the single journey with car and 4 passengers cost £75 as opposed to £39 - £45 on the ferry. As the train was booked for 10:20 and last check in was 09:50 I stayed at a hotel in the Folkestone area the night before.

When I awoke on the morning of the crossing to the sound of heavy rain and strong winds, I was glad that we were using the tunnel and not crossing by ferry as my travelling companions were not good sailors and it looked as if it could be a rough crossing. Check- in at the tunnel was quick and easy, as we drove towards the check-in the car registration was electronically read and the ticket machine greeted me by name and issued a ticket to be hung from the rear view mirror. The ticket had a letter printed on it which corresponded to the lane in which we had to wait for boarding.

Boarding starts about 25 minutes before the train is due to depart, whilst you are waiting there are places to purchase food and drink as well as a shop at the terminal and toilet facilities. The attendants direct you onto the train, loading the cars in the position best suited for an optimum load, there are two decks and each carriage will hold 4 or 5 cars depending on size of vehicle. Once on the train you are directed to park close to the vehicle in front (this is both for maximum loading purposes and to discourage people walking between the vehicles during transit). Vehicles must be left in gear or with the hand brake on and windows should be left half open. Although it is recommended to stay in your vehicle you can get out and walk about to stretch your legs, there are also toilets available but as with most toilets on public transport these are best avoided unless desperate.

The crossing was very quick and the train does not feel as claustrophobic as you might imagine. There is some motion noticeable and this seems to be increased if sitting in the vehicle (due to the vehicles suspension), so anyone who does suffer from motion sickness may be advised to stand in the train rather than sit in the vehicle. Unloading on arrival in France was as easy as loading in England and once we had driven through passport control we were clear to proceed on our journey.

For our return to England we would book on-line the day before departure at a cost of £83 (compared to £60 for the ferry). We booked on the 13:50 departure but arrived at the tunnel much earlier than we had anticipated at about 10:00. We were given the choice of travelling on either the 10:42 departure or the 10:50, we chose the 10:50 and made our way to the car lanes going through both the French passport control and the English passport control. When boarding started in the lane we were in, we found that we were being directed onto the 10:42 departure after all.

After another quick and uneventful journey we arrived back in the UK a little earlier than expected. The journey with Euro Tunnel had been quick and efficient, albeit a little expensive. Under normal circumstances I would still rather take the ferry but for speed of travel you cannot beat the tunnel.

Prices for Euro Tunnel, if booked in advance, start from £44 for a day return and £39 for a single whilst flexi tickets start from £124 each way.

RETURN TO HINTERZARTEN

 

HOTEL SONNENBERG

 

When I was in Hinterzarten in the German Black Forest back in June of this year, little did I realise that I would be returning so soon. Back in June the weather was glorious with long sunny days and temperatures in excess of 30 C. I had spent most of my vacation in nearby Titisee staying only one night in Hinterzarten.

Hinterzarten is at the very heart of the Black Forest and with the city of Freiburg only a short drive away, it is an ideal base from which to explore the area. At over 800 metres above sea level and surrounded by mountains, it is little wonder that Hinterzarten has become such a popular ski resort.

Arriving at the beginning of December, as I did, one can expect a little snow, although the ski season doesn’t get underway until after Christmas. In the weeks prior to my visit there had been some snowfall but it hadn’t lasted long and on the day I arrived there was not a snowflake in sight. However, the very next morning I awoke to a blanket of snow which had transformed this small town into something quite magical, a complete contrast to my previous visit.

The hotel that I and my travelling companions were staying at was the Hotel Sonnenberg situated on a hill high above the town at Am Kessler berg 9. This position afforded us the most fantastic views of the town and surrounding area, both from our bedrooms and the restaurant where we enjoyed breakfast every morning.

On our arrival at the hotel we were greeted by Herr Lehmann (the owner) with a cheerful “Welcome home”. Over the next six days it was to feel very much like our home with the generosity and hospitality that was shown to us by Herr Lehmann and his wife. The owners and their staff worked tirelessly to keep the hotel spotless and see to our every need, ensuring that we had a wonderful stay.

The Hotel Sonnenberg is rated 4 star and has an indoor swimming pool, sauna and massage rooms as well as the perfectly situated aforementioned restaurant and a library. Wi fi internet is also available and is free of charge and there is also free guest car parking. Breakfast is continental but with such a wide range of meats, cheeses, cereals, breads, preserves, fruit and juices, there is no need to go hungry. Evening meals are also available in the restaurant although you do need to pre-book in the morning.

My room was a non smoking double room at the front of the hotel overlooking the car park and town, there was also a small dairy farm opposite with a delightful cow shed that looked quite splendid all lit up at 04:30 in the morning. The bedroom was of a good size and featured a Laura Ashley design and the bathroom with its large shower cubicle had a granite finish. The bedroom also had ample seating with a settee, two chairs and a coffee table. There was the usual TV, mini bar, dressing table and adequate wardrobe space with a built in safe. All that was missing in my opinion was tea/coffee making facilities, but this is something that I have come to expect whilst travelling in Europe as it is not as common to find this facility on the continent as it is in the UK.

A short walk from the hotel is the Ski Museum which is well worth a visit, you can easily while away an hour or two looking at the ski exhibits and art work. Something to bear in mind when visiting local attractions is that often you will get a discount if you have a Hochschwarzwald card. These cards are supplied by many of the hotels to guests staying for at least two nights. The cards will also allow you travel free on some local trains, take a lake cruise on Lake Titisee and have free time on bike hire and Segway hire in Titisee.

Due to the heavy snowfall and the fact that our English car was not fitted with winter tyres, we did, on occasions, experience a little difficulty driving around, but this didn’t stop us having a great time. The local taxi drivers had no problems getting around as they all had their winter tyres on and were familiar with the winter weather conditions. We also used the train to travel into Freiburg and Herr Lehmann was kind enough to drive us to the train station. For our day out to the Christmas market in Strasbourg we hired a taxi from the hotel to the train station where we then travelled by coach for a full day’s excursion to Strasbourg and Gegenbach.

One thing to bear in mind on a visit to Hinterzarten is that for the first two weeks of December there are a lot of hotels and restaurants closed for holidays before the Christmas rush. I had booked the Sonnenberg via Booking.Com a few weeks before leaving the UK and had originally booked for 5 nights. However, we enjoyed our stay at the hotel so much that on the fifth day we booked in for an extra night.

We drove away from Hinterzarten feeling that we had experienced a wonderful holiday, but thinking it had ended all too soon. The hospitality shown to us by Herr Lehmann and his wife was second to none and we look forward to our next visit with anticipation. Germany is a wonderful country, the Black Forest is a beautiful area of Germany and Hinterzarten and the Hotel Sonnenberg is the ideal place to stay and experience this magnificent area.

LIFEHOUSE COUNTRY SPA RESORT

A RELAXING TIME

Nestled in the pretty conservation village of Thorpe-le-Soken, Lifehouse Country Spa Resort is fast becoming the place to be. Launched in December 2010 Lifehouse has already attracted a number of celebrities, among them the actress Lynda Bellingham, Katie Piper founder of the Katie Piper Foundation, singer Alexis Jordan, Konnie Huq host of 2010 Xtra Factor, Zoe Salmon former Blue Peter presenter and a number of the cast of the reality show The Only Way Is Essex.

Set in 130 acres of magnificent gardens and grounds (including 12 acres of listed gardens) and with its close proximity to London (80 minutes by train) and a mere 10 minutes by road to the delightful seaside town of Frinton-On-Sea, it is little wonder that so many are now flocking to this little bit of Essex.

The gardens and grounds have a long and illustrious history having once been owned by Lord and Lady Byng when the site housed the very impressive Thorpe Hall. Lord Byng was a personal envoy to King George V who along with Queen Mary was a visitor to the gardens as were other notables of the day such as Winston Churchill and Rudyard Kipling.

Thorpe Hall has long since been demolished and although some of the old walls still remain, for the most part it has been replaced by a very modern, contemporary building. The building itself is quite unpretentious and can only be fully appreciated once you have spent time both within its walls and viewing it externally from the gardens, you soon begin to appreciate the architects attempts to mix the old with the new and to blend the entire building in with the beautiful grounds in which it is set.

I recently spent a day at Lifehouse, this was to be my second visit and I was keen to establish if the spa was indeed as good as I remembered. I had spent the previous week doing some pretty heavy work in my garden, so I was in need of a little relaxation and pampering.

Check in at Lifehouse is very relaxed, a member of staff will talk you through the procedure, give you your itinerary for the day along with your voucher for your free welcome drink, and a card which works as a key for your locker in the changing rooms and for charging any extras to your bill, such as drinks, food or additional treatments. If you are new to Lifehouse you will be offered a tour of the facilities, this is a good way to familiarise yourself with the surroundings and a chance to ask any questions.

I had a room for the day (subject to availability on a day break) which meant I didn’t need to use the communal changing rooms. There are 89 bedrooms in total which are classed as good, great or best. My room was a good size with two large single beds, dressing table, TV, desk, tea/coffee making facilities, wardrobe space and a good sized bathroom with a large shower which operated electronically at a touch of a button, providing the water at a pre-determined temperature. There were also dressing gown and slippers for use within the spa.

Having changed into my swimming shorts and donning the dressing gown and slippers provided, I made my way to the ’Strawberry Tree’ juice bar (all bars and restaurants have a horticultural theme as do the two accommodation blocks, Mulberry and Willow). I exchanged my voucher for a cup of coffee and relaxed, checking my itinerary for the day.

The ‘Strawberry Tree’ is situated on the first floor near ‘The Hub’ which is the reception desk where you are required to check in for any treatments. The 35 treatment rooms and 15 manicure/pedicure stations are also situated here. I was booked in for a Serenity Treatment at 11:00 so at 10:50 I checked in and was given an electronic buzzer which would sound when my therapist was ready for me. I took my buzzer with me to the ‘Relaxation Zone’ and whiled away ten minutes on one of the three electric massage chairs. These chairs have various massage settings which include a zero gravity setting whereby the chair tilts backwards, lowering your head and raising your feet whilst pads inflate on the headrest, back and sides.

At 11:00 precisely my buzzer was activated and I made my way to ‘The Hub’ where I was greeted by Jess my therapist who then escorted me to one of the therapy rooms. Jess asked me a number of questions regarding my health and expectations of the treatment. I explained that I had suffered a slipped disc many years ago and that I still suffer from back pain as a result, Jess bears this in mind when she starts my back massage and started off gently, increasing the level of pressure to a point that I was happy with. It is this level of personal detail and care that installs trust and confidence in your therapist and encourages you to return.

After my back, neck and shoulder massage, Jess massaged my scalp before treating me to a facial which entailed hot and cold face towels as well as oils and lotions. I came away from my 50 minute session feeling wonderfully relaxed and refreshed. Jess gave me a glass of water and recommended that I drink plenty of water to hydrate myself and then escorted me to the ‘Relaxation Zone’ where I rested a while before making my way to the library.

As I had been booked in for lunch at 12:45 in ‘Water lilies’ restaurant I intended to try out the free internet service in the library prior to my meal. However, on arrival at the Library, I discovered that it was closed between 12:00 and 13:00 for a meditation class. (Lifehouse provide various activities throughout the day ranging from garden walks to dance lessons).

As I was unable to use the library at this time, I went to ‘Water lilies’ and enquired if it was possible for me to take my lunch earlier (it was now 12:15). The staff were more than happy to oblige and I was immediately seated by the window overlooking the gardens. A two course lunch with water is included in the day package and you can pay for wine, tea/coffee and deserts as extra. I opted for two courses and had Parma Ham with a Baked Fig and Blue Cheese for starters and Free range Chicken Caesar salad with Crisp Parma Ham, marinated White Anchovies and a Parmesan Crisp for my main course. It was delicious and well presented. Having eaten in the restaurant once before, I can say that the standard of food served here is of a very high standard, worthy of any top restaurant.

After an excellent lunch I made my way once again to the library where I spent ten minutes or so on the computer accessing the internet (this is a great service for guests and the library is an ideal location).

At 13:15 I entered the ’Swim Zone’ where I spent the next two hours swimming, resting and making use of the steam rooms and sauna. Unfortunately the hydrotherapy pool was closed for maintenance which was a great shame . I had really enjoyed the pool on my previous visit, it is probably the best pool of it’s kind that I have experienced , it certainly beats your average Hot tub.

I made my way back to my room to shower and get dressed before going to the ‘Orchids’ bar for my pre-booked cream tea at 16:00. I arrived a few minutes early and informed the young lady behind the bar that I had pre-booked a cream tea and she asked me to take a seat. As I did so a large group of people entered and took up seats in the restaurant, I discovered that this was a party who had been on a escorted tour of the gardens and were now taking afternoon tea. My own pot of tea arrived very quickly and I was informed that my scone would soon follow. After waiting 15 minutes I enquired as to the whereabouts of my scone, the young lady went to check on it, returning to say that it was on its way. Another 15 minutes later and my scone had still not materialised and the young lady once again went in search of it, returning with my scone, pot of jam and a dollop of cream. The young lady apologised for the delay and offered to get me a fresh pot of tea. It may have taken 30 minutes to arrive but it was well worth the wait, the scone was delicious.

After my cream tea I decided to work off some of those extra calories with a walk in the garden. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to explore all 12 acres of listed gardens but what I saw was most impressive and it was a wonderful end to a fantastic day.

Packages at Lifehouse Country Spa Resort range from day stays to overnight stays, golf breaks, ‘Bridal bliss’ packages as well as exclusive club membership which is limited to 350 members. Prices range from £65 per person for a spa day to £340 per person for a two night package on full board basis. A popular choice is the Classic stay which costs £175 and includes full board, 50 minute full body massage, overnight stay and full use of facilities.

Other facilities not already mentioned include a gym (known as the playground), a hair salon and a retail shop which sells products used within the Spa, and various treatments including Lifehouse’s Signature Treatment: Oriental Bathing Experience (OBE). This treatment is inspired by traditional oriental bath houses and is a two hour experience for up to 3 guests at a time at a cost of £120 per person. A Sleep Pod is also available which can be hired for £25 an hour.

For further information please visit www.lifehouse.co.uk

THE BLACK FOREST

A HOLIDAY IN SCHWARZWALD

 

　

I have visited Germany many, many times and have travelled through the Black Forest area on a couple of occasions, but I have never spent any real amount of time in the Black Forest, until now.

I was travelling with three adult family members; we were on a motoring holiday in Germany and had already spent three days in the Stuttgart area. We were now moving on to Titisee in the Black Forest for a three day stay at the Parkhotel Waldeck, a four star Golf and Wellness hotel.

 

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald in German) is situated in the Baden Wurttemberg region of Germany and covers an area of 12,000 square km (7,229 miles). It is almost rectangular in shape being some 200 km (120 miles) X 60 km (37 miles). The highest peak in the area is ‘The Feldberg’ which stands at 1,493 metres.

 

The name ‘Black Forest’ goes back to Roman times when the densely forested mountains were referred to as ‘Silva Nigra’ ( Black Forest) due to the fact that very little light got through the dense growth of conifers. Places of interest in the Black Forest include Freiburg (a university town), the Triberg Waterfalls (the most famous in Germany), Schchsee lake and of course Titisee lake where we were staying.

 

The Name Titisee is believed to come from the Roman Emperor Titus, it has an area of 1.3 square km (about 0.78 miles) and a depth of 20 metres. Due to constant movement of the lakes surface it takes some time to freeze over, although it is not unheard of. When it does freeze to an acceptable degree, the local council do allow public access to the lake. In the past the frozen lake has been used as an airstrip but unfortunately this led to a tragic accident when one of the tractors used to keep the runway free of snow broke through the ice and sank to the bottom of the lake, taking the driver with it.

 

We had booked our hotel on-line a few weeks before arriving and we were very surprised to find that many of the hotels in the area were already fully booked. The Parkhotel Waldeck only had a suite available, at 90 square metres it was a large suite with two double bedrooms, two shower/bathrooms, a lounge and a large landing with a pull-down double bed allowing accommodation for up to six people.

 

We arrived in Titisee at 13:15 and as we could not occupy our accommodation before 15:00 we went to a local restaurant and had lunch. It was a glorious sunny day and it was a delight to sit outside having lunch whilst watching the world go by. After lunch we checked into the hotel and made use of some of its facilities which include, swimming pool, hot tubs, sauna and steam room, treatment rooms for massages etc, internet, library, billiard room , bar and lounge area. Our suite was perfect for our stay and was very clean, it was on two levels with one bedroom downstairs and the other upstairs. There was a balcony which afforded wonderful views. A nice touch was the bags with everything that you needed for the Spa, (dressing gown and two towels).

 

Many of the hotels in the Black Forest operate a scheme whereby if you stay at least two nights you get a ‘Hochschwarzwald’ card. This card gives you free admission to many facilities as well as discount off many others and free rail travel in certain areas. We used the card for a free boat trip on the Titisee lake, a free electric bike ride and a 15 minute trial on a Segway.

 

During our three day stay in Titisee we visited Freiburg im Breisgau which is a University town, founded as a free market town in 1120. The centre of Freiburg is closed to private cars and the only way to get around is by foot or on one of the many trams that criss-cross the town centre. There are many old buildings and winding little streets to explore and two of the towers and part of the old wall still stand. As Freiburg is not car friendly, we left the car in Titisee and caught the train which took about 45 minutes and was a very scenic journey, albeit, on this occasion, a rather hot and crowded train owing to the exceptionally hot weather.

 

On another day we visited the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum) in Furtwangen. This was a fascinating place to visit, ideal for a rainy day, as it was when we visited. We used our Hochschwarzwald card to get discount on the entrance fee. That same day we visited Schuchsee lake which at 930 metres above sea level is the highest reservoir in Germany and the largest lake in the Black Forest. The lake is 7.3 km long (4.4 miles) and 1.4 km wide (0.84 miles) and has a maximum depth of 61 metres. The 63.5 metre dam was built between 1929 and 1932.

 

One of the things that I love about Germany is that no matter where you are, you can always be assured of finding wonderful hotels and restaurants where the food and service are excellent. We had no problems on this trip finding places to eat, even in the most out of the way locations. An example of this is when we were travelling from the clock museum in Furtwangen to Schuchsee Lake and wanted somewhere to have lunch. We came across the small village of Waldau and the ‘Hotel Sonne Post’, this is a family run hotel and the food and service was second to none.

 

When our three nights at the Parkhotel in Titisee were over, we decided that we wanted a fourth night in the area and booked ourselves into the three star Schwarzwaldhof hotel in Hinterzarten, a small village Just a few miles from Titisee). This was actually one of the hotels that we had first tried to book for our visit but it was fully booked. Even for our one night stay they only had two rooms available which were not in the main hotel but in their guest house. The rooms were excellent and had balconies that afforded wonderful views over Hinterzarten and the surrounding mountains with the four ski jumps clearly visible. Continental breakfast was served in their own dining room so no need to go to the main hotel for that, although, we did have an evening meal in the hotels main restaurant. A beautiful area, well worth a visit.

　
　

　

GERMANY

HERRENBERG AND STUTTGART

Germany is made up of 16 states and the third largest of these in both area (13,800 square miles) and population (10.7 million) is Baden Wurttemberg. Situated in the south western part of Germany to the east of the Upper Rhine, many of the states major cities are built on or near to the Neckar river.

On this particular trip I was visiting the state capital Stuttgart as well as Herrenberg which is situated some 30 kilometres south of Stuttgart. I have visited both places and the surrounding area on many occasions and have always found the area to be of immense beauty and interest.

 

My first stop was in Herrenberg which is the fourth largest town in the district of Boblingen, originally formed from the hamlets of Muhlhausen and Raistingen in the 13^th century. In 1972, following the incorporation of formally independent municipalities, the number of inhabitants exceeded 20,000 for the first time, the population today is in excess of 31,000.

 

I travelled to Herrenberg by car with three family members, having crossed the channel from Dover to Calais and then driving through France, a total of 479 miles. We had broken up the journey with an overnight stay in France in order that we arrived in Herrenberg early afternoon, having stopped en-route for lunch.

 

Our hotel for our three night stay was the four star Gasthof Hasen which is a member of the Ringhotels group. It is a family run hotel, run by the Nolly family and it is the hotel that I have used on almost all of my visits to the area.

 

The hotel has 68 guest rooms, ranging from single rooms and double rooms to suites which are ideal for families with children. The facilities at the hotel include a restaurant seating 85 guests, a “Tessiner Grotto” which is a small restaurant/bar seating 50 guests, a terrace and beer garden, a sauna, smoking room and library. There is also a conference room for up to 120 people, and new since my last visit, a bar and seating area near to reception. The hotel also provides ample free car parking spaces.

 

Our main reason for this trip was to visit family who live in the area so most of our time would be spent in the company of family in their homes, however, we did do some sight seeing and have done much more in our previous visits. The main places of interest in Herrenberg have to be the market place with the beautiful old timber framed buildings and the church which stands majestically on the hill overlooking the town. There is also the remains of a 13^th century castle which sits right on the top of the hill and entails a good walk to get to it from the town. I visited the castle twice on this visit, the first time was on a pre-breakfast walk on my own when I used the steps opposite our hotel to climb the hill, all 366 of them. The second visit was with other members of my family and so we took an easier route which takes you past the church and through the woods.

 

The market square is one of my favourite places in Herrenberg as I love the style of the buildings, so typically German, it is also the place to buy your fresh fruit, vegetables and meat on market days. The market also hosts the annual town festival every July where some 25,000 people will come out to celebrate, eat, drink and listen to the music.

 

Of course if you are staying in this area then a visit to Stuttgart the state capital of Baden Wurttemberg is a must. Stuttgart is the 6^th largest city in Germany with a population of around 600,000. The city is spread across a variety of hills, valleys and parks and is ranked number 30 in Mercer’s 2010 liveability rankings (7^th in Germany).

 

The first settlement in the area was at the end of the 1^st century with the establishment of a Roman fort and Stuttgart was founded around 950 AD. The main train station was opened in 1846 and is now the subject of demonstrations as locals voice their disapproval at the vast amount of money being spent on updating the station and track. The Schlossgarten is now home to many of the demonstrators in their makeshift camps.

 

Places of interest in Stuttgart include the aforementioned Schlossgarten as well as the Schlossplatz, two castles, zoo, TV tower, museums and an art gallery. There is also a very good shopping area. One of the highlights of the Stuttgart year has to be the beer festival which comes second only to that of Munich, they also hold a very good wine festival with some excellent locally produced wines.

Local transport is very good and inexpensive. For our trip into the city centre we left our car at a family members house and caught the bus into the centre as it is so much easier than driving and then having to try and find somewhere to park.

 

Another place of interest that comes to mind is that of Hundertwasserhaus in Plochingen. Although I didn’t get to visit it on this occasion, I have in the past and I found it fascinating.

Born Friedrich Stowasser in Vienna in 1928 (he later changed his name to Hundertwasser), Hundertwasser was a Jewish Austrian painter and architect with buildings designed by him in many locations around the world, including Plochingen, a short drive east from Stuttgart. The building is a brightly painted and eccentric building which can be easily spotted from the main road as you head towards Ulm and Munich.

 

The Black Forest is within easy travelling distance of Stuttgart and even Munich and Bodensee are within two or three hours drive. Bodensee is a large lake which is on the borders of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, it makes for an interesting and enjoyable drive to completely encircle the lake, driving through all three countries.

　

FRANCE BY CAR

CALAIS TO DOVER

 

 

We arrived in Calais at 14:20 local time having travelled across the channel from Dover with P&O on ‘The Pride of Kent’, a 90 minute journey. The crossing had been very calm and as we had eaten on board the ferry, we were ready to set off on our journey.
There were four adults in our vehicle and we had a journey of about 290 miles to get to our stopover for the night at Woippy near Metz. We were travelling through France on our way to Germany, our final destination being Herrenberg near Stuttgart, a total journey of 479 miles from Calais.
We had chosen Woippy as our overnight stay as it meant very little deviation from our planned route which involved the A16, A26 and A4, all very good roads which included toll roads for which we would have to pay out in excess of 40 euros, but well worth it for the clear open roads that meant we could make good time with very few hold ups.
As we had driven 124 miles already that first day, driving from our Essex home to the port of Dover, we didn’t want to drive too many miles before having a break and we wanted to get to our hotel in time for dinner.
Driving off of the ferry onto French soil, you do need to remind yourself that you have to drive on the right hand side, making a mental note that everything now is different. It is amazing however, how easily you do fall into the pattern of driving on the opposite side of the road, the motorways are fine as all traffic is flowing in the same direction and all you really need to remember is to overtake on the left hand side, not the right. Driving in the town is a little different as you have to remember to go around roundabouts the opposite way to that which you are used to, and there are unusual circumstances when you have to give way to traffic coming out of side roads. However, as long as you keep your wits about you and pay due care and attention, you should have no problems.
For most of our journey the motorway speed limit was 130 kilometres per hour, approximately 81 miles per hour, and the miles just melted away. French motorway services vary a lot and depending on where you stop you may find a garage with a drinks vending machine and little else or a much larger complex with shops and restaurants serving hot and cold food, similar to what you would expect to find in the UK. On our stop we were unlucky to come across a services which were undergoing refurbishment, the mens toilets were closed and we were re-directed to a porta-loo where unfortunately the water had run dry. Thankfully we had not intended to eat at this stop as there was very little choice in the food department, we did however, have a very good cup of tea.
The hotel we had chosen to stay in at Woippy was an Ibis hotel, we had stayed there many years ago when it was a Mecure. We had booked our stay on-line a few weeks before departing and although at first glance the price seemed reasonable, by the time you added breakfast to the room only price and the obligatory town tax, the total came to £206 for the two rooms. Whilst this is still a reasonable price (we have often paid this much and more for one room), for a basic stopover, I did find it somewhat expensive for what it was.
We arrived at the hotel at 18:50 and after checking in to our rooms and freshening up, we went to the restaurant for dinner. The choice and standard of food was very good and we all enjoyed our meals. The other facilities in the hotel are basic, with free internet access in the reception area and a small bar and lounge area. The hotel is situated on a busy road near an industrial area and there are no footpaths along the road, this meant any walks were confined to the hotel grounds.
The next morning, having had a walk around the grounds and having made use of the free internet services, we sat down to a reasonable continental style breakfast before once more hitting the road and driving onwards to Germany, crossing the boarder not far from Strasbourg.
After our holiday in Germany (you can read about this in another of my reviews), we travelled once more through France, this time driving through the centre of Strasbourg before following the route that we had used to get to Germany a week earlier. On our return trip we had not booked our hotel en route or even our ferry back to the UK. Our plan was to see how the drive went and get as near to Calais as possible, allowing enough time to find a hotel and somewhere to have dinner.
We knew we wanted to get nearer Calais than Woippy so we had ruled out staying at the Ibis as we had on our outward journey. However, as I had picked up one of the Ibis hotel books at Woippy I used this to try to find somewhere to stay the night. We decided to try the Ibis in Saint Quentin, we had never ventured into the town of Saint Quentin before, only ever seeing the signs for it as we drove by on the motorway. As we negotiated the busy streets to find the hotel in the centre opposite the cathedral we were all surprised how big Saint Quentin town was. At the Ibis Hotel we viewed the rooms that we were offered, they were basic, clean, but very small. As the rooms were situated at the front of the building, overlooking a very busy and noisy street, we decided to try elsewhere.
Unusually, we had no more hotel books with us (very bad planning as I have dozens at home), we had to rely on the satellite navigation to give us the information we required, the only problem with this is that it doesn’t give any real indication of the standard of hotel. We decided to give the “Chateau Roupy” a look as it was only a few miles from where we were. Unfortunately, it appeared to have closed down and even a couple of locals that we spoke to seemed unaware of its existence. We searched the satellite navigation again, this time it took us five miles in the opposite direction from whence we came to yet another Chateau, Le Chateau de Neuville, St Quentin. Fortunately, this one was open and we managed to get two rooms for the night at a price of 87 euros per room and 12 euros each for breakfast.
The bedrooms were a little tired and old fashioned for my liking but the Chateau was set in beautiful grounds and the bar and restaurant were fine with good views over the gardens and serving some very tasty and generously proportioned meals. All in all a lucky find and a pleasant end to our holiday, only 113 miles from Calais.

CROSSING THE CHANNEL WITH P&O

 

(WITH CAR)

OUTWARD JOURNEY ONBOARD ‘THE PRIDE OF KENT’

　

Taking a car abroad can be a daunting prospect but as long as it is planned properly there is no reason why it shouldn’t be a stress free and convenient way to travel. I have driven in Europe on many occasions and I can assure you the thought of undertaking such an adventure is far worse than the real experience, indeed once you have made up your mind and you venture out on to those excellent roads, it becomes a pleasure.

The first thing of course is preparation, different countries will have different laws regarding what is necessary to carry in your vehicle. The most common ‘must have’ items are first aid kit, safety triangle, high visibility vest and adjustment to your headlights for driving on the right. You also need to check with your insurance company and breakdown service that you will be covered whilst abroad and get their European emergency telephone numbers. The other things to remember are, as with any foreign holiday, to make sure you carry your EHIC card for any medical attention you may require and ensure you are adequately covered by travel insurance.

On my most recent trip to France, I travelled from Dover to Calais with a car and four passengers on the 11:50 P&O service on board the ‘Pride of Kent’. I had booked the crossing several weeks in advance on the internet and was extremely pleased with the very low price of £39. We had arrived at the port from Essex via the Dartford crossing, M25 and M2/A2. You can also approach Dover from the M20 and for those not taking their cars, there are trains from London Victoria and Charing Cross to Dover Priory with a regular shuttle service to the port. National Express Coaches also operate a service to the ferry port.

Check in was quick as we had pre-booked, allowing us to drive directly to the car lanes ready to board, showing our passports and booking reference at the booth en-route. We were in the car lanes by 11:10 and boarding started at 11:20. Once on board we made a note of the car deck that we were on and the colour of the stairs that we used to access the upper decks, this would help us locate our vehicle when we arrived in France.

There are a few companies offering services across the channel from various UK ports to a number of European destinations, P&O operate up to 46 channel crossings a day with the Dover to Calais crossing taking approximately 90 minutes. The Pride of Kent was launched in 1991 and operated as the European Highway between 1992 and 2003, she is some 30.36 tonnes and has a speed of 21 knots. There are 6 active decks and 3 car/freight decks and maximum capacity is 2,000 passengers, 650 passenger vehicles or 120 freight vehicles. The amenities on board include a self service cafeteria known as “The Food Court” (this is where most people head for and it can get very busy at meal times), 2 Costa Coffee Cafes and ‘Langan’s Brasserie’ Restaurant (a very peaceful and civilised way to while away the 90 minute crossing). There is a shop which offers offshore shopping at French duty paid prices and two open decks on decks 8 and 9. There is a non smoking policy throughout the ferry apart from designated areas on deck 9.

We made our way to the “Food Court” and sampled their fish and chips which were both tasty and reasonably priced. After eating we had a stroll around the ship and then relocated to the café for a cup of tea whilst we waited to be called to our car. As we sat waiting we saw the French coastline appear and enjoyed the view as we sailed into Calais.

In no time at all we had crossed the channel and were back in the car ready to proceed on our journey. When we disembarked we drove straight out of the port (no passport control) and onto the open road, fed and relaxed we were ready for the start of our adventure.

　

THE RETURN JOURNEY ONBOARD ‘THE PRIDE OF CALAIS’

For our return crossing, we had left things to chance as our holiday had been somewhat “open ended”. We had stayed overnight in the Saint Quentin area of France and had an easy two hour drive to the ferry terminal at Calais. We arrived at about 12:05 and as we had not booked we had to go to the P&O ticket office which is located just off the roundabout before you enter the car lanes for the ferry. We booked our car and 4 passengers on the 12:50 crossing to Dover, the price of £107 was very different to the £39 we had paid coming, this shows the savings to be had by booking in advance on the internet.
With ticket and passports in hand and our car lane number hanging from the rear view mirror, we made our way to the designated lane and awaited boarding. Once again it was quick and efficient and in no time at all we were once again making a note of our car deck and stairs for when we had to locate our car at the end of our journey.
For our return journey we were on ‘The Pride of Calais’, which has very similar amenities to that of ‘The Pride of Kent’. This ferry was launched in 1987 and was owned by Townsend Thoresen until 2006, she is due to be phased out in the autumn of 2011 when she will be replaced with the larger ‘ms Spirit of France’. At 26,433 tonnes she is lighter than ‘The Pride of Kent’ but can accommodate more passenger with a maximum capacity of 2,290 and has a speed of 22 knots.
This time we treated ourselves to a meal in ‘Langan’s Brasserie’ where we could choose from the menu of the day or the al-la-carte menu. It was a more relaxing eating experience than the self service cafeteria and we spent the entire crossing enjoying our meal and chatting about our holiday, a most enjoyable end to a great trip.


 

LIFEHOUSE SPA THORPE-LE-SOKEN

 

LIFEHOUSE, A LIFESAVER!

 

　

As a resident of Thorpe-Le-Soken, I have watched with interest the development of Thorpe Hall. From the days of “The Lady Nelson” nursing home with its beautiful landscaped gardens which were often open to the public, through the demolition of the hall and subsequent use of some of the buildings as “The Studio”, to its present day incarnation as “Lifehouse”.

Lifehouse is a modern spa retreat with 89 bedrooms, a restaurant, café and bar and of course those beautiful gardens. The spa itself has a good sized swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, inhalation room and an ice cold plunge pool. On site there is also a hairdressers, a well equipped gym, relaxation room with massage chairs and a library with free internet access. There is an assortment of treatment rooms offering an array of treatments from manicures to a full body massage.

There are various packages that allow you access to all this indulgence, from yearly membership to overnight stays and day and evening packages. Day and evening packages start from as little as £45.

My wife and I booked ourselves in for the “Stop The World” day package which would allow us access to the spa, gym, gardens and grounds from 9am to 6pm. Included in the price of £180 was use of a robe during our visit, complimentary slippers, all gratuities and access to the Lifehouse Resort activities programme, this could be anything from Pilates to Latin dance. Also included was an hour long full body massage, a 35 minute House face treatment, a 45 minute manicure or executive hand care treatment, a two course lunch and a welcome drink on arrival.

We arrived promptly at 9am having used the new access road from Frinton Road to drive to the car park and then walk the short distance to the reception area. We registered and were then shown where the changing rooms were for us to change into our swimwear, robes and slippers. We were given a wristband with an electronic fob to operate the lockers and an account number to use for any purchases, so no need to carry cash.

Once in our robes and slippers, we were given an escorted tour of the facilities which finished in the café area where we had our welcome drink. We then made our way to the swimming pool and thermal area where we spent the next hour and a half until it was time for our first treatment at 11.30am.

I had never had a manicure before and I didn’t really know what to expect but I found it surprisingly relaxing, besides cutting and filing my nails and working on my cuticles, the young lady also treated my hands to a massage. From the manicure chair I made my way to the relaxation room to meet up with my wife, we just had time to try out the massage chairs before going to the restaurant for lunch at 12.45pm.

A two course lunch is provided in the price along with bottled water, a third course can be purchased at an additional cost. Lunch was superb and there was a reasonable choice, we both opted for the Dedham Vale steak for our main course.

We were due to have our House face treatment at 2.30pm and this was to be followed by a full body massage at 3.30pm. As it was now 2pm we decided to enquire about getting the appointments changed. We didn’t feel it would be wise to use the pool and thermal area after our treatments and wanted the times changed in order to use them first. The appointment book was rather full and the only way to accommodate our request was to move our House face treatment to 6.45pm.

Having changed our appointments, we headed back to the pool area where we relaxed for the next hour and a half until our full body massage at 3.30pm. After the massage we rested in the relaxation room, had a walk outside and spent time in the library. At 6.45pm we had our final treatment of the day, the House face treatment which incorporated having the face cleansed and moisturised as well as a head, neck and shoulder massage. It was then, unfortunately, time for us to leave, by the time we had changed and checked out it was 8pm, we had experienced the most enjoyable and relaxing 11 hours imaginable. I would recommend a little indulgence of this sort to anyone, we are already talking about, and looking forward to, our next visit.

HAMBURG

A GREAT CITY TO VISIT

I first visited Hamburg twelve years ago and in the intervening years have visited Germany’s second largest city on thirteen separate occasions. Duration of stay has ranged from one day to seven weeks, and I have arrived by car, boat and plane.

There is no shortage of accommodation in Hamburg with a variety of hotel styles and prices to suit all pockets ranging from the many B&B establishments to the more opulent surroundings of “The Four Seasons” or “The Atlantic” hotels, with the mid range “Holiday Inn” or “Etap” hotels among many others.

Access to Hamburg is easy with regular flights from the UK operated by Easyjet, British Airways and Lufthansa as well as Ryanair which flies to nearby Lubeck. Road links are also good and if you are bringing your own car from the UK you have the choice of the channel crossing to France and then driving through France and Germany or if you prefer (and this is the way I travel with the car), you can take the Stena ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland and then drive through Holland and Germany, an easy six hour drive with a break. Unfortunately it is no longer possible to travel to Hamburg by ferry, I did this once about eleven years ago from Harwich, it took about twenty hours but was a great way to travel. The only way to arrive in Hamburg by ship from the UK now is to go by cruise ship, Cunards Queen Mary II is often here and it is always a big event when she arrives.

Once in Hamburg, you will not be short of things to do, it is a lively place where there is always something to do. For those of you who enjoy shopping (I’m afraid I don’t), Hamburg has all the top stores you could wish for and the shopping arcades are a pleasure to walk around and a restaurant or café is never far away for that well deserved coffee break or lunch.

Architecture and heritage abounds and one of the best ways to get to know the city and see the best parts is to take part in a walking tour, you can get information on these from the tourist information office and they usually leave from opposite the Rathaus (the Town Hall). There is of course the usual open top tour bus as in every big city. A more relaxing alternative is the Alster cruises which depart regularly taking visitors to various stops around the Alster (Hamburg has two large waterways known as the Aussenalster and the Binnenalster). There are many canals and waterways within Hamburg and of course there is the Elbe which is the main river which carries all the large ships.

Other places to visit are the parks and gardens with the “Planten Un Blomen” being my personal favourite, on the edge of the park is the “Fernsehturm” (TV Tower) which used to have a revolving restaurant, sadly visitors can no longer go up the tower. The tower is next to the “Hamburg Messe” which is a large conference/exhibition centre which holds various events including the boat show.

Visitors can spend many hours down at the harbour, watching the ships come and go or taking a harbour cruise or ferry across to the other side of the Elbe. There is a Mississippi style paddle steamer to take trips on and craft of all description. By the harbour they are constructing a new building to house the Elbphilharmonie, which I believe will be finished by 2012.

Along the harbour you will find many restaurants and if you walk past Landungsbrucken (or take the U-bahn and bus) you will eventually come to the fish market, this is a must to see on a Sunday morning (05:00 to 09:30 in summer, 07:00 to 09:30 in winter). It is a lively place with market stalls selling just about everything from live chickens to souvenir coffee mugs, inside the main building you can purchase breakfast (anything from a roll to a buffet breakfast along with hot drinks, cold drinks and beer. All this whilst listening to a live rock band, what better way to start a Sunday? (of course for many it is the end of a rather long Saturday night). A short walk from the fish market and you are in Sankt Pauli where you will find the Reeperbahn with its many bars and restaurants.

Getting around Hamburg is easy and relatively cheap, the U-bahn and S-bahn trains will get you to most places of interest and the regular bus service will get you to the places that the trains don’t service. There are various ticket types which are valid on both trains and buses, ranging from a single journey ticket to an all day group ticket for up to five people (good value if you are making more than two journeys in a day). For the tourist there is also the Hamburger Card which not only gives you cheaper travel on the trains, buses and boats, but also discounts off of shopping, restaurants and museums. The Hamburger Card can be purchased for a day or up to a week.

Once you have seen and done all you want to in Hamburg (and believe me, you will need to be here a long time to achieve that!). There are many places of interest within a short drive or train journey away. Bremen is only 90 minutes on the train as is Lubeck, Luneburg is a mere 30 to 40 minutes. All three are fascinating towns in their own right and well worth a visit, trains run regularly from Hamburg’s Central Station.

If you want to travel a little further then Travemunde is a very pleasant seaside town and has ferry services over to Scandinavia, Hanover is a few hours drive away. You could even do as I did on one of my visits to Hamburg and take yourself off to Berlin for a couple of days. The list of places to visit and things to do is endless and I’m sure that anyone visiting Hamburg would not be disappointed, no matter what age or interests.

Thomson Destiny

MEDITTERRANEAN CRUISE

 

 

We flew from Gatwick to Palma Majorca to embark on our 7 night Mediterranean cruise on board the Thomson Destiny, flight time  would be just over two hours. We left on a beautiful sunny day in May only to arrive in Palma to torrential rain, thankfully the sun eventually came out and the rest of the cruise was spent in glorious sunshine.

Thomson Destiny is the largest of Thomson ships at 37,584 tons and accommodating 1,450 passengers with a passenger to crew ratio of 2.8 and is ideal for families and those taking their first cruise.

Facilities include a Casino with both tables and slot machines, 2 outside swimming pools (1 for families and 1 for adults only although this didn’t appear to be particularly well policed on our cruise), and a Library. Out of the 725 cabins only 9 have private balconies, we were in a standard outside cabin on deck 4 which was handy for the Reception, Seven Seas Restaurant, Library and shops all of which were on the same deck .

Check in at Palma was quick and efficient and we were soon settling into our cabin, the layout of the beds were L shaped with one of the twin beds under the port hole and the second bed at a right angle to it. At between 111 and 166 square feet the standard cabins are not large but our cabin was comfortable and clean. Deluxe cabins range from 164 to 239 square feet and suites 275 square feet with the grand suite being a comfortable 349 square feet.

After settling into our cabin we went for dinner in the Seven Seas Restaurant, the food was of a very good standard and the staff very attentive and the highlight of the meal was when all the waiting staff came into the restaurant at the end of service singing and with one of the waiters playing the guitar, a very nice touch.

We had opted for first sitting at dinner which meant we had the rest of the evening to take in the entertainment on board, we ended up at the Oklahoma Lounge where the resident band were playing for the sail away party, it was also where they served an excellent midnight buffet.

Day one of the cruise was spent at sea en route to Gibraltar which gave us time to discover the ship. After breakfast in the Seven Seas Restaurant we went along to the showcase for the ships excursions, we booked one of the excursions but decided that on the whole we would make our own arrangements at the ports of call. We had a tour of the bridge which was very interesting, the Captain and his officers were very friendly and answered all our questions making for a most enjoyable tour.

Afternoon tea was taken in the Lido Cafe and evening meal back in the Seven Seas Restaurant, that evenings entertainment was in the Can Can Lounge.

Day two and we decided to have breakfast al-fresco in the Lido Cafe in order to watch the ship dock in Gibraltar. We hadn’t booked one of the ships excursions for today and once ashore we searched for a local tour operator to take us on a tour of Gibraltar. We joined several other passengers in a local minibus and had a most enjoyable morning visiting the Barbary Apes, St. Michael’s caves and the military tunnels all for about half the price of the ships tour.

After a little bit of duty free shopping we returned to the ship and had lunch by the pool side and spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and relaxing. Today was the formal evening so we got togged up in our best clothes (although most of the gentlemen wore Dinner Jackets it is by no means compulsory and many men were in suits), we had cocktails with the Captain before dinner then went to see the cabaret, a comedian by the name of George King and then ended the evening with a flutter in the casino.

Day three and I started the day with what was becoming my regular walk around the ship prior to breakfast. Today we were in Lisbon and once again we had not booked a tour, once ashore we went to the tourist information office to get a local map then we walked through the cobbled backstreets of Lisbon down to the main square and then back along the water side. Once back on board the ship we relaxed around the pool and had some lunch. After dinner we went with two of our dinner guests to the Oklahoma Lounge for the Kareoke show.

Awoke on our forth day to a pre-arranged wake up call as we had booked an excursion to the Harvey’s winery in Jerez, we were taken from the port in Cadiz to the winery where we had the obligatory wine tasting, we also had a tour around the local area before returning to Cadiz where we spent a little time exploring before rejoining the ship for a swim before dinner.

Day five saw us berthed in Malaga for a full day so we decided to spend the morning on board making use of the facilities whilst it wasn’t too crowded, we went ashore after lunch. Malaga was a pleasant surprise, the old town with the Cathedral and square was very pleasant and even the newer parts of town with the beaches and hotels seemed clean if not a little commercial. Dinner was once again in the Seven Seas Restaurant and we were very much enjoying the company of our fellow dinner guests, two other middle aged couples and after dinner we went with one couple to the show in the Can Can Bar.

Day six and as they say if today is Wednesday then this must be Cartagena, one of the benefits of a cruise is waking up every day in a different port, being able to see half a dozen locations on a 7 day holiday without having to pack and unpack your suitcases every day and no driving.

As with the majority of our ports of call we had chosen not to book an excursion but simply made our own way into town. That evening after dinner we went with our new friends to the Oklahoma Lounge where the other Gentleman and I were roped into judging the Miss Destiny contest, a great evening and a splendid end to what had proved to be a most enjoyable experience.

As with most cruises our luggage had to be out of the cabin for pick up on the last evening before a certain time so we returned to our cabin at 01:15 to do just that before settling down for our last night onboard. When we awoke the next morning we were back in Palma, we had breakfast and disembarked the ship at around 08:30 to get the coach transfer to the airport for our flight back to Gatwick.

The food and service throughout the cruise had been of a very good standard, the entertainment also of a very good standard, the ship is an excellent size for finding your way around and getting to know the staff and your fellow passengers, the amenities although not as great as you would expect from the newer, larger resort ships are suitable for a good relaxing family holiday or as in our case for couples and those testing the water for the first time as far as cruising is concerned.

Robert Lidster, January 2009

P&O Artemis

P&O Artemis is one of two CHILD FREE ships in the P&O fleet, the other one being Arcadia. At 44,348 tons Artemis is some 38,624 tons smaller than Arcadia, so almost half the size. She is an intimate ship with traditional features such as the wrap-around teak deck . She will accommodate 1,200 passengers with a passenger to crew ratio of 2.4.

Features include a casino with both gaming tables and slot machines, two swimming pools and two splash pools, two whirlpools, a fitness centre, a launderette, a dedicated cinema (a rare thing at sea nowadays) and a library.

Accommodation is all outside view with no inside staterooms at all, there is a total of 600 staterooms with 152 staterooms having private balconies and four staterooms having wheelchair access. There are nine passenger decks all very well designed if not a little unusual in the fact that the staterooms are all situated on decks above the public room decks. However, this doesn’t seem to spoil the feel of the ship and everywhere appears light and there is good access and passenger flow to all areas.

I was boarding Artemis in Southampton for one of P&O’s weekender mini cruises, four nights taking in two European ports Zeebruge and Amsterdam. After my long drive from my home on the Essex coast I was looking forward to a quick and easy check in at Southampton (as has always been the case whenever I have sailed from Southampton) unfortunately on this occasion not everything went according to plan, or as I would have liked. There was a bit of confusion over where I was to leave my vehicle and, even after finally sorting that out,  the check in was late opening. However, even given these minor problems, all in all still a lot less bother than checking in at an airport.

I got on board just after 12:00 so it was straight to the Conservatory Restaurant for some lunch, There was an excellent choice of hot and cold food. I then explored the ship a little, and managed to get a guided tour of the treatment rooms in the Oasis spa. It was then up on deck at 17:00 for a “Sail Away” drink, although as it was late September, and the evenings were starting to get a little chilly, we soon retreated to the warmth of the Horizon Lounge for our pre-dinner drinks.

The Horizon Lounge would prove to be one of the most popular places on the ship, with its panoramic views and comfortable seating, it also doubled as the night club in the evenings. Dinner was at 18:30 in the Coral Dining Room, a very elegant room on just one deck, the food served here throughout the cruise proved to be of a very high standard and the staff were very friendly and helpful.

After dinner it was off to the International Lounge to see the swinging 60’s show, this is the main show lounge and is very comfortable with good views all round.  I then went to the Starlight Lounge to listen to the band before ending the evening in the Horizon Lounge.

Day one and the morning was spent at sea, I got to speak to a couple of the officers who are in charge of arranging weddings at sea, something which is becoming more and more popular, they informed me that to renew your vows cost from £250  and a wedding costs from £1,000.

We arrived in Amsterdam at 14:00 and I joined one of the ships excursions, we boarded a coach which took us on a tour of the City, stopping off at a beautiful windmill which had been turned into a home. We continued  on to a clog makers, where we saw the clogs being made, and had the opportunity to sample some home made cheeses. We finished off the excursion with an hour long canal trip.

That Evening I had dinner in the speciality restaurant “The Grill”, a good choice of steaks and fish dishes. I then went to the International Lounge to see Darren Day, the cabaret act for the evening, and then onto the Horizon Lounge for the Kareoke.

As the ship was to be in port over night it was possible to go ashore at anytime and spend the evening in Amsterdam. I decided not to go ashore as I was more than happy with the facilities onboard.

Day two and after an excellent breakfast in the Conservatory Restaurant I made my own way ashore, around a 20 minute walk into the city. After a most interesting couple of hours spent at the Anne Frank Museum I had a most enjoyable lunch at a pavement restaurant in Dam Square before rejoining the ship at about 15:00.

Tonight was formal night, so it was cocktails with the Captain prior to dinner and another evening of good food and entertainment.

Day three and we arrived in Zeebruge, it was possible to take the ships excursions into Bruges etc. but I decided to make my own way, taking the ships courtesy bus to Blankenburg the local train station and taking the train into Bruges. Once there I ambled around the little cobbled streets lined with chocolate and lace shops, and whiled away some time sat at a restaurant in the square opposite the Bell Tower, it was a beautiful sunny day and unfortunately all too soon I had to return to the ship for my final evening of the cruise.

Throughout the cruise the food, entertainment and staff had all been of a very high standard, the ship was clean and well looked after and it was a friendly atmosphere. Being a child free ship meant that life on board seemed less hectic, calmer and easier to sit back and relax. Although this was a weekender minicruise,  which will understandably attract groups of revellers i.e. stag and hen dos, there was no evidence of any misbehaviour on this cruise and a good time seemed to be had by all. The average age on this cruise was probably mid fifties, Artemis has a loyal following with the highest repeat bookings of any P&O ship.

For those wanting a medium sized intimate ship with good service, food and entertainment and child free, look no further than Artemis.

 

Ocean Village Two

 

Having always been one for the more traditional style of cruising (I do enjoy dressing up for the formal nights), I finally decided it was time to try out some free style, less traditional cruising. With this in mind I booked my wife and I on a seven night Mediterranean cruise on Ocean Village Two out of Palma Majorca.

We were flying out of London Gatwick with Thomson, and with the flight departing at 08:00 it meant an early start, leaving home at about 01:30. We had booked car parking through Purple Parking on the Internet and drove to the APH car park which is located about 10 to 15 minutes drive from the airport. We arrived at 03:20 and quickly checked in and got the transfer coach to the airport.

Check in at the airport was very quick, it helped with us getting there in good time, so we were already there when check in opened. Once we had checked in we could relax a little, look around the shops, and treat ourselves to a good breakfast from one of the many restaurants. The flight itself took just over two hours and the transfer from the airport to the ship took less than an hour, check in at the port was quick and straight forward and we were on board by 12:30.

As the cabin would not be ready for us until 15:00 we decided to go for some lunch and explore the ship. Ocean Village have two ships, with Ocean Village Two being the newest and, at 70,310 tons, the largest of the fleet. Built in 1990 and originally known as Crown Princess it became Ocean Village Two in 2007. The ship has eleven passenger decks and can accommodate  a maximum 2,053 passengers, the passenger to crew ratio is about 3 to 1.

Facilities on board include a casino with both slot machines and gaming tables, two outdoor swimming pools, four whirlpools, a self service launderette, a gym and, in my opinion, one of the best spas on the open seas. Accommodation is in any one of 832 cabins of which 628 have an outside view and 198 have private balconies, there are 10 cabins with wheelchair access. We had booked an inside cabin on a guaranteed basis which means that the least we would get would be an inside cabin but it was possible that we would be upgraded to a higher grade of cabin depending on demand. We were very fortunate to be upgraded to an outside cabin on deck five which was on the same deck as the Reception, Cyber Zone (Internet access area) and the Village Square where a lot of the entertainment and art auctions take place.

After the mandatory safety drill and a shower we rested in our cabin which was comfortable and, at 187 square feet, a reasonable size. The cabin had a large picture window, a double bed, tea and coffee making facilities, television, direct dial telephone, safe, refridgerator, easy chair and stool, dressing table, hairdryer and ample wardrobe space.

We had dinner on the first night  in the Plantation Restaurant which has 24 hour buffet dining, the restaurant was pleasant and the food was reasonable (similar to what you would expect on a packaged holiday in an average 3 star hotel).

After dinner we watched the circus type acts in the Village Square, very talented youngsters, that was followed by a singer. After our very long day we were ready to retire by 23:30.

We spent the next day at sea, so plenty of time to get to know the ship and make use of it’s facilities. After breakfast in the Waterfront Restaurant (self service) we went to a presentation on the spa facilities,  we were lucky enough to win free passes for the week (usual cost £70), we also booked ourselves a Hot Stone Massage. We then went to a presentation on the Ships excursions. We took Lunch  in La Luna Restaurant which is one of the speciality restaurants on board, we had one of their pizzas which did not carry an additional charge but certain dishes do.

We attended an art auction in the Village Square, these are getting very common on certain cruises and can be interesting to attend, and if you are looking to purchase some discounted artwork maybe a way to do it. However on this cruise I did find that it was a little too much as there was an art auction almost everyday of the cruise. We then spent some time in the Spa which we found to be excellent with a good sized Sauna, with floor to ceiling windows affording some wonderful views when you are in port, as well as  steam rooms and relaxation areas. We then went to one of the many treatment rooms for what would be a most enjoyable Hot Stone Massage.

We had Dinner that night  in the Waterfront Restaurant, the food proved to be very similar to the standard of the Plantation Restaurant.

Day Two and we were in Tunis which was a new experience for us as we had never been to North Africa before, we had booked a ships excursion which left at 08:00 and took us by coach to Carthage an ancient area dating back to Roman times with evidence of their water systems and salt works. We also had a tour of the Souks, very interesting and very easy to get lost if you don’t have a guide. We saw where they made carpets, also a perfumery, and finished our tour off with some local drink and food in a restaurant whilst being entertained by belly dancers and musicians.

Back on board the ship and it was more time in the Spa as well as another art auction and dinner in the Waterfront Restaurant .

Day Three and we were docked in Civitavecchia, again we had booked a ships excursion, this time to take us to Rome with a tour of the Vatican. The tour left at 08:00 and the coach took about 90 minutes to get to Rome. As George Bush had chosen this morning to visit the Vatican our tour had to be changed, we would now be visiting the Vatican in the afternoon. The driver gave us a tour of the city before depositing us close to the Trevi Fountain we proceeded to a local Restaurant for lunch before our tour culminated in the visit to the Vatican.

As we were missing the style of dining that we were used to on cruises, tonight we booked ourselves into James Martins Bistro which is a speciality Restaurant for which you have to pay a supplement (around £12 per person). It was well worth the extra charge as the food was excellent and the atmosphere very good, much more civilised to have waiter service when having dinner.

Other ports of call during this cruise were Genoa which was easily accessible from the port by either walking or using the courtesy water taxi, Cannes where we had a ships excursion into Monte Carlo and our final port of call,  Barcelona which was again easily accessible by taking the courtesy coach and then walking into the city centre.

The ship is a good looking vessel and as I have previously stated the Spa is one of the best I have been in, however, the standard of the food could have been higher as could the entertainment. Ocean Village advertise themselves as being the cruise for people who don’t do cruises, if you do happen to be a person who does cruises and enjoys being waited on and all the indulgence of the formal ships, then Ocean Village may not be for you.