Monday, 23 February 2015

A WINTERS BREAK IN CROATIA


ZAGREB, CROATIA



I had started my short break to the Croatian capital Zagreb at the Europa Hotel, Gatwick airport. I had booked a one night, pre-flight stay at the hotel. The one night stay included car parking for the 5 days that I was to be away, it made for a far more leisurely, relaxing start to the holiday.

My flight from London Gatwick to Zagreb was due to leave at 07:50am, this meant a very early start. I checked out of the hotel at around 04:45am, then drove to the APH off site car park. After checking in my car I was transported to the airport by coach, the journey took about ten minutes.

I arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Check-in was very quick and efficient, and once in the departure lounge, I had time to relax and have something to eat and drink before finally catching my flight. Flight time was just two and a half hours, and uneventful. I was flying with Easyjet, so no frills. But, all in all it was a good flight.
 


This was a late winter break, and snow covered the ground on arrival at Zagreb airport. I had only ever been to Croatia once before, to Split, on the Dalmatian coast. It was August, and was sweltering hot on that occasion, quite a contrast to this trip. However, although there was snow on the ground, it was relatively mild, bright and sunny, and the weather would be kind to me throughout my stay.

I took the airport bus to the bus station in Zagreb, from there it was a short taxi ride to the Four Points by Sheraton, my hotel for the next four nights. One of the first things I tend to do, when arriving at a destination for the first time, is to pick up a local map from the tourist information office. This I did, at the bus station before getting my taxi to the hotel. Now armed with my map, and having enjoyed a substantial lunch in the hotel's restaurant, I ventured out to explore Zagreb.

With less than 800,000 inhabitants, Zagreb is not a large city. Indeed, the entire population of Croatia is only around 4.29 million, far less than the population of the city of London. Although my hotel was not situated within the city centre, it was within a reasonable walking distance if one felt so inclined. However, the easiest way to get around is to use the extensive and cheap tram system. Tourism accounts for around 20% of Croatian GDP, so it is very important to the Croatian economy.

As I had such an early start to the day, I decided not to venture too far on my first day, and soon returned to my hotel. I took advantage of the free internet access in the business centre, had supper in the hotel bar, then retired for the night in my comfortable room.

The following morning, after breakfast and catching up on my emails, I headed into the city centre for a proper exploration. I walked into the city, taking in the sights along the way. There were numerous museums and art galleries to explore, but as today was a beautiful sunny day, I decided to leave those for another time.

The city centre is split into the lower and the upper town. After first exploring the lower town, with its modern shops and restaurants, I climbed the steps to the upper town, visiting the farmers market and the Cathedral along the way. I stopped for lunch at a traditional Croatian restaurant, Ivica I Marcia. This excellent restaurant is situated on Tkalciceva 70, and is one of Zagreb's leading health food restaurants, serving food free from preservatives, artificial colouring or GMO ingredients. The meal was delicious and the environment very welcoming, with the restaurant traditionally furnished, and the waiting staff looking resplendent in their pristine national costumes featuring three hearts, a Croatian national symbol. Next door to the restaurant, can be found their sister restaurant Hansel and Gretel, a wonderful, magical place to eat with children, with the restaurant attractively furnished in a fairytale theme.
 
 



After lunch I had my first experience of a Zagreb tram. Tickets for the tram can be purchased at ticket booths on the side of the street. You can purchase either single tickets, or a day ticket which allows unlimited travel within a 24 hour period. On this occasion I purchased a single ticket to get me back to my hotel.

My second full day in Zagreb. Today, I purchased a day ticket for the trams, allowing me to get around easily and experience more of the city. Besides revisiting some of the sites that I had seen the previous day, I also rode the Funicular from the lower town to the upper town. The ride only took a mere one and a half minutes, but it saved walking up an awful lot of steps! Once at the top, I viewed the rooftops of Zagreb, it was a beautiful sunny, warm day, and you could forget it was still winter, easily mistaking it for a summers day.
 


To make use of my tram ticket, I decided to ride the tram to its furthest point, Savisce, in order to view more of the city and surrounding area. My round trip took me about one and a half hours. On returning to the city centre, I went for dinner at Tratoria Al Pittor, an Italian restaurant serving great food, in very relaxing and interestingly furnished surroundings. 
 
 

On my last day in Zagreb, I decided to travel further afield. I had made enquiries at a tourist office regarding possible coach tours. Unfortunately, as it was out of season, there were no organised trips available. However, the helpful staff did suggest a couple of places, within a short distance of Zagreb, that were worth visiting. I had settled on Samobor, close to the border with Slovenia.

I caught the tram to the main train station and made enquiries. Unfortunately, there were no trains going to Samobor. I then made my way to the main bus station, here I managed to book a place on a bus to Samobor. The journey took approximately 40 minutes and cost around £10 return. On arrival at Samobor bus station, I made my way to the town centre, a 15 minute walk.
 


There was much more snow to be found here than there was in Zagreb, but it was still sunny and warm. The walk into Samobor was most enjoyable, as I was rewarded by an incredibly beautiful town. The town was extremely busy, with locals and tourists out enjoying the sunshine. I went to the tourist information office to pick up a map of the area. The young girl who served me also informed me there was a special re-enactment taking place that afternoon. The re-enactment was of a medieval battle that had taken place over the ownership of Samobor. The mock battle would be in full armour and take place below the ruined castle, the site of the original battle.


On my way to the site of the battle, I visited a museum which portrayed Croatian life in times past. The walk to the battle site took me alongside a long and winding river, through fairly deep, bright and powdery snow. I was not alone on my walk, it appeared that the entire population of Samobor were also going to the battle!

The re-enactment was an impressive display of archery and swordsmanship, great entertainment and very atmospheric with the ruined castle looming over us, and the smoke from the burning fires adding to the authenticity of it all.
 


After the battle, I went to a local restaurant and enjoyed my penultimate meal in Croatia. Once again, I was not disappointed, fantastic food at an unbelievable price. I returned to Zagreb by bus and, once back at my hotel, had a drink in the bar and savoured my last few hours in this delightful city.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast in the hotel, I booked a taxi to take me to the airport for my flight home to the UK. This had been only a short break, but I felt that I had filled every minute, and had seen a good deal of Zagreb and the surrounding area. Would I return to Zagreb? Most probably, would I return to Croatia? Definitely, without hesitation!

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